The question of what truly defines an ‘Iyengar bakery’ is a culinary puzzle for many in Bangalore. With over 500 of these establishments scattered across the city, identifying the authentic ones can be a challenge, especially when popular items like Dil Pasand, Congress buns, and khara biscuits are found everywhere.
A lighthearted discussion on Reddit mirrored this confusion, with users humorously lamenting the proliferation of bakeries using the ‘Iyengar’ name, often serving non-traditional items like egg puffs. This mirrors a broader trend seen with other beloved local brands, from wine shops to juice centers, where family-run businesses eventually transform into widespread brand names.
What sets Iyengar bakeries apart is their innovative approach to flavor combinations. The Dil Pasand, for example, is a delightful fusion of tutti-frutti and grated coconut encased in a buttery, baked flatbread – a blend of Indian sweets and Western baking techniques. This culinary journey began with H.S. Tirumalachar, who, after learning baking from a British officer, opened the Bangalore Brothers (BB) Bakery in 1898. From its origins in Hassan, the Iyengar bakery concept has spread far and wide.
However, the appeal of these traditional bakeries seems to be waning for some. While they were once the go-to spot for Bangaloreans in the 1990s, before the advent of modern patisseries, many now opt for international trends like sourdough and croissants. While nostalgic visits might still occur for comforting vegetable puffs, the sweeter, coconut-heavy options sometimes fall short of modern palates.
The ability of Indian cuisine, and Iyengar bakeries in particular, to masterfully blend sweet and savory elements is a unique strength. While other cultures have their own savory pastries, the Indian versions often boast a distinctive spicy kick. This knack for combining flavors is evident in their offerings, from vegetable puffs that pair perfectly with chai to buns that can complement a savory snack.
The enduring link between a dish and its origin, often tied to a specific ingredient or place, is also seen here. Hassan, the birthplace of the first Iyengar bakery, continues to influence the naming of establishments, like the ‘Hassan Iyengar Bakery,’ even in Bangalore.
Looking ahead, the future of these beloved bakeries faces a critical question: should they innovate to cater to changing tastes, or remain true to their roots? In a world of constant culinary fusion, sticking to tradition might be the most radical and authentic stance. By preserving their unique flavors and consistent quality, Iyengar bakeries could continue to stand as beacons of clarity and comfort amidst the ever-evolving food landscape.
Shoba Narayan is a Bengaluru-based award-winning author and freelance contributor specializing in art, food, fashion, and travel.