In Nadunalumoolaikinaru near Tiruchendur, R. Sivabharath and T. Chairmadurai move in a hypnotic trance, portraying Anjaneya. Dressed as the revered deity, they dance to the rhythmic beats of a naiyandimelam ensemble, complete with vivid monkey-like gestures and bared teeth, fully embodying their chosen character.
At the local temple, a priest presents them with two coconuts. With astonishing devotion, they tear open the nuts using only their teeth, breaking the kernels to drink the water. Following this, bunches of bananas are consumed with the same fervent, simian-like manner, further deepening their portrayal.
“This act is a fulfillment of a solemn vow made to Goddess Mutharamman in Kulasekarapattinam,” explains Mr. Chairmadurai. “I was once living in dire poverty. It was during that time I pledged to impersonate Anjaneya. Now, my life has improved; I work as a butcher and earn a steady income.”
Mr. Sivabharath has joined this dedicated troupe of devotees heading to Kulasekarapattinam, also known affectionately as Kulasai, to honor his own pledge. “My family faced immense hardships,” he recounts. “I’ve been making this pilgrimage for four years now, and things are significantly better for us.”
Indeed, it is unwavering faith that inspires thousands to adopt diverse guises during the Navarathiri celebrations, popularly known as Dasara. Devotees transform into everything from revered deities and epic heroes to everyday figures like beggars, police officers, doctors, and nurses. To achieve these intricate looks, skilled makeup artists are specially commissioned from Chennai.
S. Murugan from Vellamadam near Nazareth shares his profound story, explaining he has visited the temple for over two decades. His pilgrimage began after a small tumor on his neck mysteriously vanished. “It disappeared,” he affirms, “but I continue my visits out of gratitude and faith.”
The Dasara festival in Kulasekarapattinam is a vibrant tapestry of folk traditions. Hundreds of musicians specializing in naiyandimelam, chanda melam, and thappu instruments, alongside energetic record dance groups, converge on the town, creating a lively procession as they accompany the devoted pilgrims.
“I’ve been performing for five years now,” states Rasu, a naiyandimelam artist hailing all the way from Palani. His journey highlights the widespread appeal and significant demand for these folk performers, reaching far beyond the four southern districts during the Dasara festivities.
This time of year marks a bustling festival season. Across the districts of Tirunelveli, Thoothukudi, Tenkasi, and Kanniyakumari, every village boasts a dedicated committee solely for organizing the Dasara celebrations. Many villagers who have moved away make a special effort to return to their ancestral homes to partake in these cherished festivities.
“I work in Chennai, but I commit to spending seven days at Nadunalumoolaikinaru for the festival,” shares V. Madhavaraj. “I will be dressing as a woman, as instructed by the temple oracle during a trance.” Similarly, nearly 100 devotees from Mathavankurichi, despite residing in Chennai, ensure they return here annually for the celebrations.
While Goddess Mutharamman is a prominent folk deity revered across many southern Indian villages, her temple in Kulasekarapattinam holds a unique significance. Here, she is celebrated with a status equal to Vedic deities, worshipped as an embodiment of Parvati and enshrined alongside Lord Siva, known locally as Gnanamurtheeswarar. During Dasara, all routes leading to Kulasekarapattinam throughout the southern districts are dazzlingly lit with colorful displays, stretching for miles.
The tradition of Dasara in Kulasekarapattinam dates back approximately 70 years. Initially under private ownership, the temple later came under the administration of the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department. Remarkably, it has successfully integrated aspects of Sanskritization while steadfastly preserving its foundational folk traditions.