As the festive season approaches, often bringing a delightful, albeit sometimes overwhelming, array of sweets like motichur laddus and murukkus, many of us seek a healthier alternative. For the author, this craving leads to thoughts of ragi mudde, a staple recognized for its exceptional health benefits and alignment with a wholesome, local diet. Karnataka, particularly Bengaluru, is a prime region for ragi (finger millet), with much of the state’s harvest originating from Tumakuru, near the city.
Ragi, scientifically known as Eleusine coracana, has ancient roots in Africa but has long been a significant part of India’s agricultural landscape. Millets have been cultivated here for thousands of years. While many Indian states incorporate ragi into their diets, Karnataka stands out for its innovative use of this grain. Beyond common preparations like ragi kanji or ambli, and its inclusion in tiffin items like idlis and dosas, Karnataka uniquely crafted the ragi mudde.
So, what exactly is ragi mudde? The name translates to ‘ragi ball.’ It’s more than just a food item; it’s a culinary experience that requires a bit of tradition and technique. The process, observed in a village near Tumakuru, involves steaming ragi flour, known locally as hittu, into a smooth, lump-free consistency. It’s a process that demands a certain amount of physical effort, a ‘naatak’ or performance, using a special wooden stick called the mudde kolu. This dedication to achieving a lump-free texture mirrors a common Indian culinary obsession, seen in dishes from modakams to badam halwa, where grandmothers often emphasized the mantra: ‘No lumps!’
Once cooked, the ragi paste, which has a pleasant brown-red hue, is shaped into balls. While the ideal size is a matter of personal preference – from village-style ‘cannonball’ sizes to city-dweller’s orange or grapefruit approximations – the key is its form. It’s not about perfect symmetry but about creating a vessel.
The true magic of ragi mudde unfolds in how it’s eaten. A small piece is pinched off, dipped into a flavorful gravy or ‘saaru,’ and then swallowed whole, bypassing chewing. This method is essential: the mudde acts as an edible spoon, perfectly designed to carry the complex, often pungent, flavors of the saaru. These saarus are typically made with greens and lentils, like the author’s recent favorite, Malabar spinach (basale soppu). The experience is described as warm, comforting, and deeply nourishing.
Ragi mudde isn’t just a dish; it’s a cultural touchstone. For many families, it’s a cherished ‘Sunday special,’ often craved more than richer alternatives. Its ability to provide sustained fullness makes it an ideal food for the semi-arid regions of Southern Karnataka. Historically, it powered Tipu Sultan’s warriors and sustained the populace before the Green Revolution introduced highly polished, nutrient-deficient rice varieties.
Today, millets are experiencing a renaissance as superfoods, celebrated for being gluten-free, high in fiber, having a low glycemic index, and rich in essential minerals. Bangalore’s health-conscious residents, who once sought out imported grains like quinoa, are now rediscovering the value of local millets. Ragi, with its beautiful ‘Krishna-colour’ and versatile flour, is leading this charge. It’s appearing in chic cafes in millet bowls and crepes, and even inspiring cookies, beers, and pastas.
Yet, amidst these modern adaptations, the humble ragi grass, swaying in the wind, remains unchanged. It has witnessed our global culinary flirtations with teff, quinoa, and couscous, only to see us return home, realizing the true treasure was always within reach. The wisdom of the old farmer and the Kannada ‘ajji’ (grandmother) is now being echoed by today’s wellness enthusiasts, making the ragi mudde a quiet, yet triumphant, comeback story.
*(This article was contributed by Shoba Narayan, a Bengaluru-based award-winning author and freelance writer specializing in art, food, fashion, and travel.)*