While Assam is widely celebrated for its exquisite silks like Muga and Eri, the state’s rich textile heritage also includes cotton. For generations, this cotton, traditionally thick and robust, found its place primarily in household items rather than everyday wear. However, designer Anushka Das, the visionary behind Anushka Annasuya and Kalpavriksh Design, saw this as a unique opportunity to reimagine Assamese cotton for the modern world.
Anushka embarked on a mission to transform Assam’s traditional cotton into a fabric that is both lighter and more refined. Her vision was to create textiles that eloquently narrate the vibrant stories of Assam’s culture, rich flora, and diverse fauna through their intricate motifs. Since late 2022, she has partnered with the skilled women weavers of the Aagor Society in Chirang district, guiding them in creating exquisite dress materials and home linens. This collaboration beautifully blends traditional Assamese craftsmanship with contemporary usability. The Aagor Society currently operates 30 looms, supporting women artisans not just in Chirang but also in Kokrajhar and Udalguri. Anushka also highlights their recent partnership with the Tezpur Mahila Samity, a co-operative established in 1947, further expanding their collaborative network.
Assam cotton distinguishes itself through its inherent strength, remarkable colorfastness, and a uniquely soft, fluid texture. Anushka’s innovative approach integrates traditional Assamese weaving techniques with high-quality Salem cotton yarns. These yarns are Azo-free, meaning they are colored with natural or synthetic dyes that do not contain harmful azo compounds, ensuring a truly sustainable and chemical-free textile. This meticulous process not only preserves the region’s iconic intricate extra-weft motifs but also guarantees safety for both the dedicated artisans and the wearers. Anushka emphasizes that the dependable colorfastness is crucial, as it prevents colors from bleeding during washing, thus protecting the beauty and detail of each design.
Anushka’s design inspiration gracefully fuses Assam’s distinct weaving traditions. She notes that traditional Assamese weaving typically features a delicate cream or white base, subtly adorned with extra-weft motifs like elegant creepers, graceful birds, majestic rhinos, and the iconic jaapi (a traditional conical hat). These elements are meticulously placed to achieve a refined and understated beauty. In stark contrast, the Bodo tribe’s textile artistry introduces a vibrant, geometric language, incorporating bold motifs such as dinghkiya bibar (fern), kasau bikha (turtle’s shell), and phareo megon (pigeon’s eye), rendered in striking reds, yellows, and greens.
The versatility of this cotton is evident in its varied thread counts: for home decor, it ranges from 20s to 40s, while for apparel, it can reach up to 120s, resulting in incredibly light and sophisticated fabrics. This profound mastery of design is a testament to Anushka’s 18 years of invaluable experience in the textile and fashion sector. Her career began working alongside renowned designers Neeru Kumar and Ritu Kumar, where she spearheaded design collections for both Indian and international markets, before successfully launching her own esteemed label in 2011.
Anushka’s deep connection with the Aagor Society dates back to 2004, when as a NIFT Delhi student, she first encountered the weaving cluster during a craft sensitization project. This formative experience left a lasting impression. Reflecting on her journey, she shares, “Relocating after 21 years has truly opened my eyes to the beauty of diversity. Working closely with the weaving communities across the Northeast and committing to their livelihoods has become my most profound responsibility.” She gratefully acknowledges the crucial partnership of Phungka Daimari, Aagor’s production manager, and Sushila Basumatari, the head weaver, in driving this remarkable textile revival.
When drawing comparisons between Assam cotton and other Indian varieties, Anushka elaborates on its unique characteristics: “Assam cotton is notably soft, fine, and fluid, frequently handspun, which results in subtle slubs that lend it a natural, almost silken feel. In contrast, Gujarat’s Khadi is typically heavier and possesses a more rustic charm, while Bengal’s tant is known for its crisp, starched finish. Tamil Nadu’s kora cottons, on the other hand, tend to be quite stiff.”
The very looms used in Assam play a pivotal role in defining the fabric’s distinctive character. Traditionally crafted from bamboo and wood, these lightweight looms are typically elevated above the ground—an ingenious design perfectly suited for Assam’s humid, flood-prone environment. They are specifically engineered for plain weaves, allowing for intricate extra-weft insertions where weavers can meticulously hand-pick each motif. This technique is what imparts Assam cotton its delicate patterns and characteristic graceful drape. However, due to their smaller scale, the productivity of these traditional looms is inherently more limited compared to the larger pit or frame looms commonly found in Bengal or South India.
By skillfully balancing traditional craft, modern design, and innovative techniques, Anushka aims to reintroduce Assam cotton into daily wardrobes, ensuring its cultural soul remains untouched. She beautifully articulates, “Given its profound linguistic and cultural uniqueness, Assam’s cotton weaving tradition is a direct reflection of its people’s rich heritage and their deep bond with the land.” For her, these textiles are far more than mere garments; they are vibrant, living tapestries—powerful symbols of enduring resilience and exceptional artistry.