Imagine a scene in Udangudi, Thoothukudi district: two-and-a-half-year-old Mahadiya joyfully plays in the sandy muttram (courtyard) of her ancestral home on Chidambara Theru. This very house, boasting resilient palm wood trusses and a classic tiled roof, was lovingly constructed by her great-great-great-grandfather. Mahadiya and her mother, though residents of Chennai, cherish their visits to Udangudi during Pooja holidays. Her mother firmly believes that playing in the natural sand not only strengthens Mahadiya’s immunity but also enhances her hand-eye coordination.
The current custodian of this remarkable home, Nazar, is dedicated to preserving its original charm, steadfastly resisting any modern alterations. He honors his grandfather’s deep conviction that an open courtyard and sandy floor are crucial for environmental balance and natural climate control. While many neighbors have opted to roof their courtyards, even while keeping the exterior traditional, Nazar remains committed to the home’s authentic design.
“It’s incredibly environmentally friendly and provides a wonderful coolness at night,” shares Mr. Nazar, who recently brought skilled masons from Chennai to meticulously repair some of the peeling plaster. This historic dwelling once featured a pathayam (a traditional storage structure) and even a dedicated room that served as a labor ward. Interestingly, his niece recalls that the verandahs were originally crafted from clay and have only very recently been upgraded to concrete.
A stroll through Udangudi reveals a captivating sight: sixteen vibrant streets, predominantly inhabited by Muslim families, lined with rows of enchanting old houses. These homes, characterized by their classic tiled roofs and sturdy palm wood trusses, include areas like Periya Theru, Mohideen Puthu Theru, Puthumanai Mela Theru, Puthumanai Vadakku Theru, and Santhaikadai Theru. Majestic neem trees generously shade both sides of these thoroughfares, providing a natural shield from the intense heat and direct sun. While most have admirably endured, a small number of houses, unfortunately beyond restoration, have been rebuilt with modern concrete.
A Community’s Dedication to Preservation
M. Shaik Mohideen explains the challenges, stating, “Some houses had to be demolished because it became impossible to find masons skilled in traditional repair techniques. Even when such artisans are found, the authentic raw materials—like specific types of lime, sand, gallnut (kadukkai), and other crucial ingredients for the building paste—are both expensive and incredibly scarce.” Despite these formidable obstacles, he proudly notes that an impressive 90% of these historic homes continue to stand, a testament to the community’s unwavering commitment to their preservation.
The abundance of these unique homes is intrinsically linked to Udangudi’s history as a thriving center for palm sugar manufacturing and various other palm-based products. This local industry provided a readily available supply of robust palm wood, ideal for construction. M.H. Nijamudeen, at 78 years old, vividly recalls seeing elderly men, then in their nineties, inhabiting these very houses when he was a boy. “This suggests these homes are well over 200 years old,” he remarks. “Beyond their age, they are incredibly environmentally friendly, with their one-and-a-half-foot-thick clay walls offering exceptional heat resistance.”
For M.H. Jawahirualla, a prominent leader of the Tamil Nadu Muslim Munnetra Kazhagam (TMMK) and a proud native of Udangudi, these houses evoke cherished memories of his childhood. “My father’s ancient home in Puthumanai Mela Theru and my mother’s house in Kalankudiyiruppu Periya Theru both stand preserved in their original form,” he shares. He paints a nostalgic picture of the town’s straight, thoughtfully planned streets, each culminating in a mosque and a burial ground. “After a satisfying lunch,” he reminisces, “the gentle breeze rustling through the neem trees would cradle you into a peaceful sleep. Truly unforgettable days.”