Brazilian chef Saulo Jennings envisioned a magnificent culinary display featuring pirarucu, a colossal Amazonian river fish, when he learned he’d be cooking for a British royal.
Prince William’s Earthshot Prize, an environmental initiative, was set to gather 700 guests in Rio de Janeiro in early November for the Prince’s inaugural visit to Brazil. For Jennings, an acclaimed Amazonian chef celebrated for his use of sustainable rainforest ingredients, this was an ideal opportunity to craft exquisite canapés.
However, a major stipulation emerged: the menu had to be entirely vegan, a requirement relayed to Jennings by the Earthshot organization.
Initially believing there was a misunderstanding, Jennings offered to incorporate a vegan option. But when he was explicitly told that the revered river fish, a cornerstone of both his cooking and Amazonian cuisine, was off-limits, he felt deeply disrespected.
“It’s akin to asking Iron Maiden to perform jazz,” Jennings remarked in a recent interview. He viewed the demand as a profound lack of respect for local flavors and the Amazon’s rich culinary heritage.
Despite his reservations, and after considerable persuasion from the host museum, Jennings devised a vegan menu spotlighting Amazonian treasures like cassava root, jambu leaf, and Brazil nuts. Yet, by that point, discussions had soured, and he was ultimately dropped as the event’s caterer for the November 5th gala.
“I harbor no ill will towards vegans or British individuals,” he stated, “but I refuse to compromise my culinary principles.”
The chef’s public outcry quickly resonated across Brazil, with many interpreting the menu stipulation as an affront to the Amazon’s vibrant culinary identity. This region is also preparing to host the United Nations’ annual climate conference, which Prince William, world leaders, scientists, and policymakers are expected to attend.
Jennings found the situation particularly puzzling given his previous experience catering for King Charles III, Prince William’s father, at the British Embassy in Brazil without any such dietary constraints.
“For King Charles’ event, I even prepared fish and chips,” he recounted, “but with pirarucu, of course.”
Beyond the personal slight, this menu clash has sparked a broader debate about what truly constitutes climate-friendly food, especially as global consumers and brands increasingly prioritize sustainability and ethical sourcing.
While a spokesperson for Prince William declined to comment, an anonymous source close to the climate event clarified that the Prince himself was not involved in the menu decisions.
The source explained that the Earthshot Prize, known for its significant environmental awards, consistently serves vegetarian meals as a reflection of its sustainability commitments, rather than strictly vegan ones.
Ultimately, the source added, Jennings’ non-selection for the catering role was due to budgetary limitations, not his initial reluctance to create a fish-free menu.
It’s important to distinguish that a vegetarian menu excludes meat and fish, whereas a vegan diet eliminates all animal products, including dairy, eggs, and honey.
Jennings has dedicated his career to advocating for a concept of sustainability deeply rooted in the traditional culinary practices passed down through generations by Indigenous communities in his native region.
“Our diet is dictated by what the forests and rivers provide,” explained Jennings, who also serves as a U.N. gastronomy ambassador. “Some days we enjoy fish, other days it’s nuts and açai. This natural rhythm, too, embodies sustainability.”
Environmental experts highlight that promoting the sustainable utilization of Amazonian resources, such as harvesting Brazil nuts and regulated fishing of native species, is crucial for preserving the rainforest.
The pirarucu fish, a prehistoric giant capable of reaching 440 pounds, stands as a testament to successful conservation. Decades ago, it faced extinction due to rampant illegal poaching for its valuable meat.
However, recent years have seen numerous community-led initiatives in the Amazon effectively combat overfishing and establish sustainable pirarucu supply chains. This responsibly sourced fish now reaches chefs like Jennings, who feature it prominently in exquisite dishes across his three Brazilian restaurants.
In a few weeks, Jennings will have another chance to celebrate his region’s culinary heritage, having been invited to cook for the Norwegian and Chinese delegations at the upcoming climate conference.
Furthermore, he confirmed he will be catering a dinner reception for various heads of state, a special request from Brazilian President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva.
And what will be on that menu, you ask?
“With all due respect,” he declared, “there will be fish.”
Reporting by Lis Moriconi contributed to this story.