On first glance, there’s nothing particularly rebellious about a V-neck sweater. Just think of the impeccably clean-cut Paul Newman, often seen in a camel V-neck layered over a crisp white button-up. Or perhaps you picture the reliable, corporate-friendly styles that have filled Theory’s racks for years, catering to the understated elegance of white-collar professionals.
Yet, this autumn, the fashion world is shaking things up, eager to challenge the humble V-neck’s traditionally demure image by experimenting wildly with its depth and shape. Designers like Prada are showcasing V-necks that plunge dramatically, offering a bold flash of skin, while brands such as Attersee opt for a far more modest, almost crew-neck-like V, barely grazing the throat.
To unpack the diverse interpretations and applications of this iconic neckline, we gathered members of our Styles desk — Stella Bugbee, Jacob Gallagher, and Marie Solis — alongside freelance fashion writer Liana Satenstein. They dive into the many meanings of the V-neck, and perhaps more importantly, discuss what, if anything, should be worn beneath it.
MARIE SOLIS: So, let’s start with the basics: do any of us actually own V-necks right now? Jacob, I see you’re sporting one today.
JACOB GALLAGHER: Indeed! I own precisely one V-neck, which was originally my wife’s but has since been permanently “borrowed.”
LIANA SATENSTEIN: You are the man of my dreams, honestly. I absolutely adore a man in a V-neck. Though, ironically, I don’t currently own one myself, which is quite absurd considering how much I write about them!
SOLIS: A V-neck isn’t typically the first image that comes to mind for my “dream man.” That’s likely because I tend to associate it with what we now fondly — or not so fondly — recall as the “indie sleaze” era, marked by those incredibly deep V-neck T-shirts from American Apparel. Think of Tyson Beckford in 2008 or Ed Westwick in 2010, flashing some chest hair. But I’m certainly open to being persuaded!
GALLAGHER: Ah, you’ve hit the nail on the head (or perhaps, the neck of it?) for me: everything hinges on the plunge. If it goes too deep, it risks looking sloppy, careless, or frankly, a bit sleazy. But if the plunge is too shallow, what’s the point? You might as well just opt for a crew neck then.
STELLA BUGBEE: Take, for instance, an incredibly deep V-neck from Prada featured in a recent collection, like the navel-grazing one seen on the runway. The spectrum of V-necks is truly vast.
GALLAGHER: That’s a V that has simply given up! A V with absolutely no structural integrity; it’s practically a collapsed V!
BUGBEE: On the opposite end of that spectrum, you have the more conservative Attersee V-neck, which barely skims the throat.
SATENSTEIN: The very essence of a V-neck demands a hint of skin—dare I say, a whisper of cleavage! It’s about gracefully exposing your clavicle, not your deepest secrets.
SOLIS: I agree, it subtly highlights the body. And to your point, Liana, it feels like we’re currently in a moment where there’s a real desire to both flaunt and appreciate those subtle hints of skin!
GALLAGHER: This brings us to another critical question, and I think I already know your answer, Liana: What exactly do we wear underneath?
SATENSTEIN: Absolutely nothing! I know Miuccia Prada prefers a white T-shirt beneath hers, but I can’t help but think of Michael Douglas in “Basic Instinct.” He perfected the look, completely sans undershirt. On women, think Parker Posey in “Clockwatchers” – a contortion of the corporate.
GALLAGHER: For a woman, I completely agree. It evokes that chic 1990s Jil Sander aesthetic. But on a man, an unlayered V-neck can venture into something too… provocative.
SATENSTEIN: I personally believe if you’re going for a V-neck, you *must* commit to showing some “V.” But perhaps I’m biased; I’m drawn to men who exude the rugged charm of Romanian mobsters.
SOLIS: For men, it raises the question: are we talking about visible chest hair? And how closely fitted should these V-neck sweaters be, especially if worn without an undershirt?
GALLAGHER: As has been well-established, I’m a bit old-fashioned: I see the undershirt as essential for creating visual balance. It’s a way to introduce a patch of white space, adding an element of intrigue to the ensemble.
SATENSTEIN: On women, though, I adore a snugly fitted V-neck. Someone once sent me a picture of Nigella Lawson in her kitchen, absolutely brimming out of a tight V-neck.
BUGBEE: Tight V-necks definitely give off Lorelai Gilmore vibes.
GALLAGHER: In the broader fashion landscape, the V-neck is often seen as unremarkably preppy. It’s a non-statement.
SATENSTEIN: There’s no inherent sensuality there, typically.
SOLIS: Exactly. So what transforms it into that “if-you-know-you-know” statement piece for us? And why is it gaining popularity now?
SATENSTEIN: I believe it’s because the V-neck is inherently subvertible. There’s far more potential for expression than one might think. It’s truly a cornucopia of sartorial self-expression.
GALLAGHER: What we’re ultimately discovering is that the V-neck’s impact depends far less on the garment itself and much more on how it’s styled and worn.
SOLIS: Precisely. There’s a V for every mood. Feeling monastic? Opt for an Attersee. Craving a touch of playful abandon? Go for the Prada, perhaps with a bralette peeking out.
SATENSTEIN: Or nothing at all!
This discussion features insights from Stella Bugbee, Jacob Gallagher, Liana Satenstein, and Marie Solis.