Giulia Piersanti, a renowned knitwear and costume designer, firmly believes that every clothing choice is made with intention.
“Even individuals who claim indifference to fashion are making a statement,” Piersanti notes. “I constantly observe people on the street, pondering the motivations behind their sartorial selections.”
Piersanti, 49, a talent behind Celine’s knitwear, has once again collaborated with director Luca Guadagnino on the costumes for his latest film, “After the Hunt.” This compelling drama, set at Yale, navigates the complexities surrounding a student’s sexual assault allegation against a professor, delving into themes of cancel culture, wokeness, and the societal reactions they provoke.
Despite the film’s grounding in a real institution and significant social debates, Piersanti emphasizes that realistic wardrobes were not her primary objective. “My focus is on artistic vision, crafting something both authentic to my perspective and distinctly iconic,” she explains. “I sometimes worry about being overly realistic and losing the depth or impact.”
This artistic approach meant steering clear of stereotypical academic attire like elbow-patched corduroy blazers for Alma (Julia Roberts), a philosophy professor grappling for tenure. Alma becomes embroiled in a campus controversy when wealthy doctoral student Maggie (Ayo Edebiri) accuses fellow professor Hank (Andrew Garfield) of sexual assault.
Instead, Piersanti chose a wardrobe of “sharp lines” and subdued color palettes, which project a sense of coldness on screen. This styling frames Alma as an ‘upper-class, worldly intellectual,’ her elegant attire from prestigious brands like The Row and Lemaire, subtly accented with an L.L. Bean Boat and Tote for a touch of New England authenticity, serving as both expression and armor against campus tensions.
Maggie, Alma’s protégé, sports clothing that mirrors her mentor’s aesthetic but with a youthful twist—think stylish shorts replacing trousers, paired with more whimsical cardigans.
In stark contrast, Hank, Alma’s colleague, is often seen in a rotation of vintage and well-worn basics—flannels, blazers, and hiking boots—reflecting a more disheveled, yet distinctly different, character persona.
“While others are more restrained, Hank’s style is notably scruffier, even sexier,” Piersanti observes. “He seems to get away with it, well aware of his attractive demeanor.”
Piersanti intentionally avoided dressing the female leads in dresses, with one notable exception: a dress Maggie wears in a concluding scene set years later. This deliberate sartorial shift symbolizes the character’s newfound independence.
Ultimately, she emphasizes, wardrobe decisions “offer profound insights into individuals.”
Shop Talk: Fashion Industry Updates
The world of fashion is buzzing! From Maria Grazia Chiuri’s exciting move to Fendi and JW Anderson’s new outdoor-inspired collection for Uniqlo, to the latest Ulla Johnson store opening and Woolrich’s fresh collaboration with Target — here’s a roundup of recent industry news.
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Véronique Nichanian, after an impressive 37-year tenure, is stepping down as the men’s artistic director at Hermès. Her final collection for the prestigious label is anticipated in January.
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Following her nine-year stint at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri has been appointed Fendi’s new chief creative officer. Chiuri, who previously worked with the Italian luxury brand in the 1990s, is set to unveil her inaugural collection at Milan Fashion Week in February.
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Jonathan Anderson’s brand, JW Anderson, has launched its newest collaboration with Uniqlo. This collection draws inspiration from classic British outdoor aesthetics, offering items like corduroy trousers and hunting jacket-inspired outerwear, with prices ranging from $7.99 to $129.99.
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Woolrich, the iconic American outdoor brand, has partnered with Target for a new collection. Featuring over 100 pieces for men, women, and lifestyle, this line also channels an outdoor spirit, with prices from $2 to $450.
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New York-based designer Ulla Johnson, celebrated for her vibrant and feminine designs, has opened her fourth retail location on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. The new store, joining existing locations in SoHo, the Hamptons, and Los Angeles, showcases artworks including a bronze sculpture by Alma Allen and other pieces from Johnson’s personal collection.
In Conversation With Salehe Bembury: Launching a New Sneaker Brand
For the past 15 years, Salehe Bembury has been a pivotal force in the footwear industry, collaborating with major shoe and luxury brands. His portfolio includes designing Puma’s Hali 1 basketball shoe for the Indiana Pacers’ Tyrese Haliburton, leading sneaker design at Versace, and creating footwear for New Balance, Cole Haan, Yeezy, and Moncler.
Known for his vibrant color palettes and distinctive bulbous soles, Bembury, 39, has incorporated these signature elements into the inaugural sneaker for his new brand, Spunge. Named Osmosis, this hiking-lifestyle hybrid shoe will retail for $150 and is slated for a widespread release in November, with Bembury at the helm while still pursuing other collaborations.
In a recent interview, Bembury, whose innovative shoe designs are also highlighted in a new Rizzoli book, discussed his creative inspirations, the vision behind his new venture, and his ambitious plans to challenge established sneaker industry ‘giants.’
What was the inspiration behind the Osmosis sneaker?
My inspiration stemmed from my personal outdoor adventures—hiking, camping—and sharing those experiences on social media. I realized I was encouraging others to embrace similar activities. The Osmosis sneaker’s tagline, ‘a shoe to do things in,’ reflects a desire to counter our screen-dominated lives and inspire real-world engagement.
You’ve built a strong reputation through collaborations with numerous major footwear brands. What led you to launch your own?
Previous collaborations primarily focused on limited-edition storytelling and promoting the partner brand.
This new brand, however, is entirely centered on the consumer and fostering a sense of community. It allows me to tell stories purely through my own creative vision. Unlike many collaborations that thrive on exclusion, scarcity, and hype, Spunge is built on principles of inclusion and welcomes everyone.
Starting and running your own company presents a different challenge compared to designing for others. How are you approaching this new venture?
My current audience often perceives me as a collaborator or a figure behind ‘hype drops,’ a role I’ve played for some time. But this is not merely another drop; it’s a genuine, enduring brand. My ultimate aspiration is to genuinely contend with the industry’s established giants.