Turkey’s initiative to establish stringent guidelines for doner kebabs within the European Union has been officially withdrawn. Had this proposal for a “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” label been approved, it would have dictated the ingredients and preparation methods allowed, a move that would have particularly affected Germany’s beloved doner kebab industry.
The German take on the doner, often featuring veal, red cabbage, pickles, and various sauces in a flatbread, has diverged from the original Turkish recipe over time, becoming a distinct part of German culinary culture. Turkish authorities had argued that the doner, a dish popularized across Europe through Turkish migration, should be recognized as a national heritage item with standardized production.
However, German officials and the industry pushed back, asserting that the doner had become an integral part of Germany’s own national cuisine. The Turkish Federation reportedly failed to consult with German kebab businesses before submitting its bid, drawing criticism and ultimately leading to a failed attempt at compromise.
The traditional doner meat preparation involves vertical rotisserie cooking, a technique dating back to the 16th century, according to Turkey’s International Doner Federation (Udofed). Udofed’s proposed EU regulations included specific limits on meat types (excluding veal and turkey), recommended slicing thicknesses, and rules for marinades and preparation knives.
With a significant Turkish population and heritage in Germany and across Europe, the proposed regulations would have had a wide-reaching impact on the kebab industry, which generates billions of euros annually and employs tens of thousands of people. An EU official indicated that the bid was likely to be rejected anyway due to a substantial number of objections.