Renowned designer Phoebe Philo has always seemed to possess an uncanny ability to predict what women desire in fashion. Now, it appears her influence extends even to their fingertips.
A recent campaign for Philo’s self-titled brand showcased French actress and director Mati Diop sporting square nails, each adorned in various understated, muted hues. A captivating image of Diop, with her fingers gently intertwined beneath her chin, became a central feature in promotional emails and dominated the Phoebe Philo website’s homepage for days.
This distinct manicure quickly captured online attention, sparking a trend. Major fashion publications like WWD, Marie Claire’s British edition, and Vogue, which declared it “the manicure for fall,” all featured articles about it.
However, keen observers soon pointed out that the original reports from Vogue and WWD failed to credit the creative mind behind this sought-after look: Sylvie Macmillan. A talented nail artist based in London, Macmillan has an impressive portfolio, having styled shoots for top magazines and partnered with renowned brands such as Miu Miu, Burberry, Mugler, and Nike. Both Vogue and WWD later updated their articles to acknowledge Macmillan after inquiries were made.
In a recent interview, 34-year-old Macmillan expressed her disappointment at the lack of credit, noting it wasn’t an isolated incident. While it once “devastated” her, she now views it as an unfortunate reality in the fashion world. She clarified that her expectation of credit from brands is low, as they “paid me to do jobs.”
Macmillan, whose background spans technical arts and special effects, transitioned into nail artistry after gaining experience in set and model design. Her work ranges from dramatically theatrical to playfully irreverent and subtly understated. She explained that the varied muted shades on Diop’s nails in the Phoebe Philo campaign mirrored how clients often test different polishes at a salon.
Beyond nails, Macmillan also channeled her creativity into crafting intricate table candelabras—a personal project she pursued during the pandemic when opportunities for nail artists were scarce. She has since fully transitioned from nail artist to a full-time designer of home wares.
Reflecting on her career shift, Macmillan shared, “I felt like I wasn’t doing as interesting work anymore. The idea of going into home wares and having to start from the beginning felt like I had the fire again.”
Shop Talk: Fresh Releases and Collaborations
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NikeSkims: The new activewear brand, a collaboration between Nike and Kim Kardashian’s Skims, launched with a star-studded campaign featuring Serena Williams, Jordan Chiles, and Sha’Carri Richardson. This collection offers sweat-wicking, body-sculpting pieces like tank tops with integrated sports bras, sheer leggings, and jumpsuits, with prices ranging from $38 to $138.
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Reformation x Nara Smith: Model and lifestyle influencer Nara Smith teamed up with Reformation to release a 20-piece collection. This line features vintage-inspired dresses, cozy fall sweaters, and charming gingham pajamas, all reflecting Smith’s signature aesthetic of chic home life. Pieces start at $148.
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Uniqlo U’s New Drop: Uniqlo’s premium line, Uniqlo U, under the creative direction of Lemaire designers Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, unveiled its latest collection. Expect understated tees, sweaters, and outerwear, notable for their innovative fabric combinations such as nylon paired with merino wool. Every item is priced under $150.
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Marc Jacobs x Gibson Collaboration: A pop-up event at Nordstrom’s Fifth Avenue store in Manhattan on October 5th will feature guitars and accessories from the new partnership between Marc Jacobs and Gibson. The collection includes guitar straps and picks adorned with whimsical illustrations by British artist Hattie Stewart.
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Ray-Ban Meta Smart Glasses: Actor Dylan Sprouse and model Barbara Palvin front the campaign for the second generation of Ray-Ban Meta smart glasses. These enhanced glasses boast an upgraded camera and offer hands-free filming capabilities, starting at $379.
An Interview with a Fashion Sustainability Watchdog
While New York City often buzzes with Fashion Week each September, the month also marks another significant event: Climate Week NYC. Since 2009, this gathering has drawn business, political, and technology leaders to address pressing environmental issues.
This year’s Climate Week began on Sunday, coinciding with a period of escalating natural disasters and a weakening of environmental protections in the United States. Amidst this critical backdrop, Remake, a leading organization in fashion climate activism, held a two-day event featuring workshops and discussions dedicated to addressing the industry’s environmental impact.
Over recent years, numerous brands have publicly committed to ambitious sustainability goals, signed climate pledges, and vowed to reform their supply chains. However, with domestic climate science facing challenges, a crucial question emerges: Will the fashion industry truly deliver on these promises? In an edited interview, Ayesha Barenblat, founder of Remake, shares her insights on the current state of climate activism in fashion and what lies ahead.
Which companies or initiatives are making a real difference in sustainability today?
Barenblat noted that many smaller brands, both domestic and international, are leading the charge. She also highlighted the exciting potential of resale and rental technologies, which prioritize extending the lifespan of existing garments over constantly producing new ones.
Why has the fashion industry’s public commitment to sustainability become quieter recently, after a period of enthusiastic declarations and climate pledges?
The reality is, many brands have struggled to meet their pledges. Barenblat expressed deep skepticism about voluntary commitments, explaining that they often falter as political and economic landscapes shift. While some brands might offer a sustainable capsule collection, a truly compelling story of consistent, industry-wide change remains elusive.
Are there any promising developments or “bright spots” in the current fashion sustainability efforts?
Barenblat highlighted the often-overlooked aspect of human rights and labor within the sustainability discussion. She pointed to the California Garment Worker Protection Act as a significant positive, which now guarantees minimum wage for workers. This legislation helps ethical brands in California compete more fairly with larger, fast-fashion retailers that historically struggled with fair labor practices.