Forget what you thought you knew about Oktoberfest fashion! Today, you’ll spot cool kids pairing trendy sneakers with their classic lederhosen. You might even find custom deerskin pants adorned with beautiful Arabic calligraphy, or vibrant, African-themed dirndls designed by a dressmaker from Cameroon. At Bavaria’s much-loved autumn beer festival, tradition is meeting modernity head-on, as younger generations and new German residents reimagine what it means to wear authentic Bavarian attire.
Millions flock to Munich each year to revel in the lively beer tents and thrilling carnival rides. Among them are local Bavarians, proudly sporting heirloom garments crafted from regional materials and passed down through families. Others are tourists embracing the festive spirit with more affordable, mass-produced versions of traditional outfits bought online.
But a significant movement, led by young people and immigrants, is actively pushing the boundaries of traditional Bavarian “tracht” – the folk costume that hasn’t seen a major style overhaul since the 1970s. This fresh perspective breathes new life into iconic pieces like lederhosen and dirndls.
Consider Michael Krippel’s workshop outside Munich, where a pair of his handmade lederhosen – soft leather trousers traditionally worn by Bavarian men and often passed from father to son – can take up to 18 months to complete. His meticulous curing, cutting, and stitching techniques have remained largely unchanged for 150 years. Yet, Krippel embraces contemporary trends like lighter leather hues and welcomes bold customer requests. He recounts embroidering a famous quote from a 19th-century Bavarian comedian, Karl Valentin, onto a pair of lederhosen, but translated into stunning Arabic calligraphy. “Really crazy things, somehow,” he chuckles, highlighting the imaginative blend of cultures.
Other designers are equally daring. Rahmée Wetterich, a fashion designer who moved to Germany from Cameroon at age 12, merged her dual heritage in 2017. She created an African-inspired dirndl—a traditional dress with a full skirt, defined waist, and often an apron—and wore it to a Munich City Hall celebration. “I wasn’t sure if I was going to get shot,” she admits with a smile, recalling her initial apprehension. “Will I be hated? I don’t know. Will I be accepted?”
Wetterich’s worries were unfounded. Her African-printed dirndl not only gained acceptance but also won an award for innovation in folk culture. Today, she and her sister, Marie Darouiche, run their own tailoring shop, Noh Nee. Many of their clients, having lived abroad, seek to weave different cultural elements into their traditional dress. As Wetterich puts it, “They want their tradition, too, but they want to combine it. That means they suddenly have two hearts in their chest.”
Not all modern practitioners of Bavarian fashion advocate for radical changes. At the Lederhosen Lechner shop, located in a charming former farmhouse, 25-year-old Max Lechner staunchly upholds strict tradition. He refuses to use pink thread on his deer-hide pants, meticulously cured in fish fat and designed to last for generations. A trendy color might be ‘cool’ for a year or two, he argues, but “then what about for the next 100 years?” About half of his clientele still opt for the timeless combination of classic black leather with green silk embroidery.
Lechner passionately believes lederhosen should be a part of everyday life, encouraging customers to wear them frequently, even through summer, rather than relegating them to the closet. While he doesn’t mind personal styling choices—he himself favors flannel shirts and bare feet in his shop—he strongly advises against purchasing cheaply made lederhosen online. He attends Oktoberfest and observes with appreciation how young attendees creatively accessorize their traditional attire.
Amidst the carnival rides on a warm day, you might spot teenagers with diverse cultural backgrounds effortlessly pairing lederhosen with vibrant soccer jerseys. When temperatures drop, hoodies become a common sight, ranging from classic cotton to stylish variations of traditional Bavarian jackets. Dirndls are complemented by everything from chunky boots and high heels to designer handbags, and an array of unique hats. Both Mr. Lechner and Mr. Krippel, with their trained eyes, can recognize handmade pants from a distance, often knowing precisely which artisan crafted them.
These evolving fashion statements persist long after Oktoberfest concludes. Bavarians wear tracht for various activities, be it bird hunting, social gatherings, or simply enjoying a local biergarten. At the Lorenz Ganter tailor shop, north of Munich, women meticulously sew vests and jackets from Bavarian wool and other regional fabrics. Dieter Ganter, whose grandfather founded the shop 80 years ago, notes, “We have tradition for all days.” He also observes a growing preference among today’s customers for lighter, brighter fabrics over the historically dominant green and brown hues.
Many of Ganter’s clients, including migrants to Germany and new regional arrivals, are keen to embrace Bavarian culture through its dress. Some even save diligently to acquire their first pieces of tracht. “People want to be a part of Bavaria,” he says. “They like it.” And, increasingly, they like to make it their own unique expression.