Who says you can’t wear sneakers with your lederhosen to Oktoberfest? Today’s trendsetters in Bavaria certainly do! This annual celebration of autumn and beer is witnessing a fascinating fashion evolution. From bespoke deerskin pants adorned with elegant Arabic script to vibrant African-themed dirndls, new generations and recent arrivals to Germany are boldly reimagining traditional attire, adding their unique flair to the festivities.
Millions flock to Munich each year to revel in the iconic beer tents and thrilling carnival rides, celebrating a festival that culminates this Sunday. Among them are longtime locals, proudly sporting heirloom garments crafted from local materials and passed down through generations. Then there are the tourists, often playfully embracing the spirit in affordable, mass-produced outfits bought online.
However, a significant movement is underway, especially among younger attendees and immigrants. They are actively pushing the boundaries of traditional Bavarian ‘tracht’ – an aesthetic that last saw a major overhaul back in the 1970s.
Imagine waiting up to 18 months for a pair of meticulously handcrafted lederhosen – the supple leather shorts traditionally worn by Bavarian men, often inherited from father to son – once you’ve ordered them from Michael Krippel’s workshop near Munich. His process, from curing and cutting to stitching, remains largely unchanged for 150 years, a testament to enduring craftsmanship. Yet, Mr. Krippel welcomes modern twists, like lighter leather shades and adventurous client requests.
Mr. Krippel’s custom lederhosen can command prices over $2,300. He recalls clients requesting everything from motorcycle logos to a twist on a quote by 19th-century Bavarian comedian Karl Valentin. “We’re now embroidering one of his quotes onto the back, but translated into beautiful Arabic calligraphy,” Mr. Krippel shared, emphasizing the ‘crazy, somehow’ nature of these unique requests. Other designers are also pioneering their own sartorial innovations.
Rahmée Wetterich, a fashion designer who moved from Cameroon to Germany at age 12, masterfully fused her dual heritage in 2017. She created an African-inspired dirndl – a traditional dress featuring a full skirt, defined waist, and often an apron – and bravely wore it to a Munich City Hall celebration. “I wasn’t sure if I was going to get shot,” she recounted with a smile. “Will I be hated? I don’t know. Will I be accepted?”
Ms. Wetterich’s concerns proved unfounded. Her striking, Africa-printed dirndl earned an award for innovation in folk culture. Today, she and her sister, Marie Darouiche, operate their successful tailoring shop, Noh Nee. Many of their patrons, having lived abroad, seek to blend cultural influences in their clothing. “They want their tradition, too, but they want to combine it,” Ms. Wetterich explained. “That means they suddenly have two hearts in their chest.”
Amidst this wave of innovation, some Bavarian fashion purists uphold strict tradition. Max Lechner, 25, who runs the Lederhosen Lechner shop in a rustic farmhouse, refuses to incorporate trendy colors like pink thread into his durable deer-hide pants, meticulously cured with fish fat. His reasoning? A trendy color might be ‘cool for a year or two,’ but ‘what about for the next 100 years?’ he asks. Half of his clientele still opt for the timeless combination of classic black leather with green silk accents.
For Mr. Lechner, lederhosen aren’t just for special occasions; they’re meant for everyday wear. He advises his customers against leaving them in the closet during the summer months. While he personally favors flannel shirts and bare feet (at least in his shop), he stresses one crucial rule: avoid cheaply made lederhosen purchased online. He enjoys observing the vibrant styles at Oktoberfest, where young revelers showcase all sorts of personal flair.
Whether it’s a hot day, you might catch teenagers with diverse cultural backgrounds pairing lederhosen with soccer jerseys. On cooler days, hoodies are a common sight – from classic cotton to elaborate variations of formal Bavarian jackets. Dirndls are styled with everything from chunky boots and high heels to designer handbags and an eclectic array of hats. Remarkably, both Mr. Lechner and Mr. Krippel possess the keen eye to identify handmade pants from a distance, often knowing precisely who crafted them.
These fashion trends extend far beyond Oktoberfest. Bavarians proudly wear their ‘tracht’ for everyday activities, be it bird hunting, social gatherings, or a visit to a traditional biergarten. At the Lorenz Ganter tailor shop, situated north of Munich and founded 80 years ago by his grandfather, Dieter Ganter observes women meticulously sewing vests and jackets from local Bavarian wool and other regional fabrics. He notes that modern customers are increasingly drawn to lighter, brighter fabrics, moving beyond the conventional greens and browns.
Many of Mr. Ganter’s clients include migrants to Germany and newcomers to the Bavarian region, some of whom save diligently to purchase their very first ‘tracht’ pieces. “People want to be a part of Bavaria,” he affirmed. “They like it.” And, crucially, they enjoy making it uniquely their own.