The viral journey began with Francesca Keller, 27, posting a video on her TikTok page during Fashion Week. Sporting a scarf, she playfully claimed to be ‘incognito’ after ‘growling’ at Anna Wintour that morning. While it might seem like a stunt for clicks, for Francesca, it’s a family affair – Anna Wintour was once her mother’s boss.
Throughout the year, Francesca has been delighting her significant TikTok following by featuring her ‘Fashion Mom,’ the renowned stylist Elissa Santisi. What started as a casual introduction has blossomed into a beloved recurring segment, transforming Elissa – a former Vogue style director (1998-2003) and editor-at-large (until 2013), with two tenures at Harper’s Bazaar – into an unlikely, accidental influencer.
Despite her illustrious career, Elissa Santisi largely shied away from the public eye for decades. However, some of Francesca’s followers might recall seeing the ‘Fashion Mom’ in R.J. Cutler’s 2009 documentary, The September Issue. Francesca jokingly admits, ‘We don’t talk about this,’ referring to her mother’s aversion to the film, which Elissa still hasn’t watched.
Francesca, a natural performer, clearly didn’t inherit her stage presence from her mom. Knowing Elissa’s dislike for the limelight, Francesca cleverly started filming her last year, much to the delight of audiences, especially those nostalgic for the golden era of fashion magazines and their iconic figures.
Elissa playfully describes the TikToks as ‘a two-minute reality show that I didn’t sign up for.’ One of their earliest and most popular videos, boasting nearly two million views, captures Francesca accompanying her mother on a shopping trip. The clip showcases Elissa’s discerning editorial eye as she critiques various department stores’ ‘bad selection,’ walking out empty-handed.
The accompanying caption perfectly summarized the ordeal: ‘Only thing she likes is a plain white T-shirt from The Row. Zero items up to her standard.’
@badgalfrancesca shes a hard critic but she knows whats what (trench: celine) #parents #stylist #coolparents #moms #fashionmoms #stylistmom #vogue #fashioneditor #mymomiscoolerthanyours #shoppingvlog #shoppingwithmom ♬ Club Penguin Pizza Parlor – Cozy Penguin
Elissa’s taste is impeccable and specific: Phoebe Philo-era Celine, Loewe, Prada, Dries Van Noten, and Dior Men are among her favorites. She offers a distinctive, deadpan ‘tough love’ approach to fashion advice. Unlike typical haul videos or fleeting microtrends prevalent on TikTok, most of their shopping expeditions don’t result in a single purchase, offering a refreshing contrast to consumerist content.
Elissa admires Francesca’s distinct aesthetic, remarking, ‘I like that she is just herself and so different from me, and not affected by me.’ Yet, Francesca frequently seeks her mother’s seasoned advice.
Francesca confesses, ‘If I am ever shopping, I have to FaceTime her and ask what she thinks. I feel like I will never not need her opinion.’
Calling herself a ‘fashion nepo baby,’ Francesca became aware of her mother’s glamorous career early on. ‘I knew it was cool because the people around me made me aware that it was cool,’ she recalled, adding, ‘I was just like, ‘Oh, my mom has a lot of fun shoes.’’
Visiting the Vogue offices at 4 Times Square was a rarity, as it wasn’t exactly a child-friendly environment. Yet, Francesca vividly recalls one visit where she made it her mission to pass Ms. Wintour’s office. ‘I raided the accessories closet, I put on a pair of sunglasses, and I just walked back and forth to see if I could see her,’ Ms. Keller recounted. Mission accomplished.
Francesca admits, ‘She wouldn’t bring me to anything unless I begged her.’ Both mother and daughter concur it’s ‘a little cringe’ to use one’s child as a fashion accessory. ‘She’s a subdued lady. She’s not going to beg P.R. people to let me in,’ Francesca explained.
However, Elissa would occasionally make exceptions for significant events. Fashion’s Night Out was a standout memory for a young Francesca, where an insistent editor friend of her mother’s helped her meet the Olsen twins. She’d eagerly await late-night recaps from the Met Gala, asking if her mom had encountered Lady Gaga. Francesca even recalls teenage tears in front of Glenda Bailey, Elissa’s boss at Harper’s at the time, all because she missed a chance to meet Rihanna at a runway show.
The Unwritten Rule: ‘What Happens on TikTok Stays on TikTok’ (Or Does It?)
Francesca never harbored ambitions for a career in fashion, particularly not behind the scenes. Her true calling was acting or pop stardom, leading her to study theater at Bard before transferring to USC. Following the pandemic, she joined an acting program in Los Angeles and simultaneously boosted her TikTok presence. In 2023, her burgeoning DJ career frequently brought her back to New York, eventually prompting her return to the city.
She noted, ‘I started DJing fashion events, and everything just started falling into place.’
Elissa remained blissfully unaware of the TikToks until texts from former colleagues, like W magazine editor Sara Moonves, started flooding in, all referencing the ‘Fashion Mom’ series. ‘I’ll have a little uptick in Instagram followers, and it’s like, ‘Uh-oh,’’ she admitted. ‘Then I look at TikTok, and I cringe.’
To Elissa’s chagrin, Francesca recently began cross-posting her videos to Instagram. Francesca recounted, laughing, ‘She said, ‘What happens on TikTok stays on TikTok.’ And I said, ‘Too bad!’’
Even casual at-home moments, with Elissa minimally participating, quickly become viral hits. Francesca expressed surprise: ‘What really shocked me is her just sitting on the couch, and everyone obsessing over her glasses and her Nike sweatpants.’
It’s evident that Elissa isn’t keen on being filmed, but viewers can see her gradually warming up. Commenters affectionately call her their ‘gatekeeping queen,’ largely due to her witty, understated replies when Francesca asks about her outfits. For instance, when questioned about her glasses, she famously quipped, ‘at a store.’
Francesca openly admits her limited knowledge of fashion history, stating, ‘I don’t really care.’ However, her followers are keenly interested, recognizing her mother as a true visionary with an aspirational wardrobe. ‘She tells me stuff, but I wear what’s fun for me,’ Francesca explained. ‘I’m not obsessed.’
Elissa often attempts to gift Francesca cherished designer pieces, only to be met with disinterest. ‘I try to give her things, like, ‘This is Nicolas Ghesquière Balenciaga,’’ Elissa recounted. Francesca’s enthusiastic response: ‘Cool, sell it!’
Despite her indifference, Francesca does occasionally ‘borrow’ items from her mother’s closet, including a specific pair of Chanel boots and a Celine jacket. Unfortunately, she has a habit of returning them less than pristine.
Elissa candidly admitted, ‘I had to start hiding things.’
The duo’s captivating dynamic beautifully highlights the evolving power shift from traditional fashion editors to today’s digital influencers. Francesca observes that Fashion Week now features nearly as many branded events as actual runway shows.
Elissa commented on the new guard, ‘Everyone probably feels threatened by these young important people on their phones. I don’t even know who they are.’
With their TikToks gaining traction, designers now occasionally seat them together at shows or invite them to exclusive parties. Despite this newfound attention, Francesca insists, ‘There is no business behind this.’ She adds, ‘When I can convince her to be on camera, I will.’
Elissa playfully retorts, ‘Convince? All of a sudden, the camera’s out! I’m always caught off guard.’ Francesca has, however, accommodated her mother’s requests to remove certain videos, respecting that online fame isn’t for everyone.
Francesca notes, ‘It’s what she lets me do and what I can get away with is how this best operates.’
As Francesca and her peers know, a growing follower count often leads to more opportunities. Looking fondly at her mother, Francesca expressed, ‘I’m really outgoing, which is totally opposite from you. But you know, I always say, it’s a hard industry to work in. You gotta put yourself out there. If I can do that for you, let it happen.’