After much speculation, the formidable hat finally came off.
Following a day spent largely concealing her eyes under a violet chapeau, Melania Trump shed her headwear and graced St. George’s Hall for the white-tie banquet. She was stunning in an off-the-shoulder yellow Carolina Herrera gown, complete with long sleeves and a lavender silk belt.
Evidently, she understands the profound impact of a perfectly timed, regal reveal.
This ensemble presented a relatively understated elegance when contrasted with the gold lace of the Princess of Wales’s Phillipa Lepley gown (featuring a high-neck and long sleeves), or even Queen Camilla’s royal blue Fiona Clare dress. Yet, it remained firmly within the ‘gold family’ of aesthetics, its lavender belt subtly echoing the blue sashes worn by her royal hosts.
By now, Mrs. Trump has perfected the art of strategic revelation and concealment. Her attire consistently projects the Trump brand’s opulent image, while simultaneously serving as a shield against intense public scrutiny—and potentially, the throngs of protesters gathered in Britain. All this, while she maintains an almost silent presence.
Indeed, if the initial day of the state visit was largely an immersion into royal customs for the Trumps, seemingly designed to indulge Mr. Trump’s fascination with monarchical grandeur, the first lady certainly played her part impeccably through her sartorial choices.
Not since the inauguration has Mrs. Trump’s wardrobe commanded such attention or conveyed so much. Her clothing tells a compelling story about the influence of brand-driven attire, the evolving special relationship between the U.S. and Britain, and the increasing reserve in her public persona since the Trumps’ previous official visit to Britain six years ago.
Her visit began with a dramatic, floor-sweeping Burberry coat upon her arrival at London Stansted Airport. While she had worn Burberry on her previous state visit, it was then a silk blouse. This time, it was a full-length trench, resembling a rain-ready ball gown, cinched tightly at the waist with a sharply upturned collar.
On one hand, this garment evoked the grandeur of a royal robe, simultaneously hinting at a diplomatic nod. Burberry, an iconic British brand now led by an American CEO, offered a subtle message about the benefits of international collaboration, particularly pertinent amidst discussions of tariffs.
Conversely, it shrouded her almost entirely, from chin to ankle, in a manner that revealed absolutely nothing.
Her sartorial strategy remained consistent. Upon her arrival at Windsor Castle on Wednesday morning, Mrs. Trump, while not sporting a crown or tiara, donned a striking hat that aligned with the royal dress code. Queen Camilla wore a vibrant blue Philip Treacy creation, and Catherine, Princess of Wales, opted for a burgundy toque.
In contrast to the royal women’s hats, which elegantly framed their faces for public view, Mrs. Trump’s hat deliberately obscured much of her face, particularly the potentially expressive upper half. This mirrored her inaugural hat from January. This particular headpiece remained fixed throughout the day, even indoors while she viewed the royal collection alongside Queen Camilla, who had removed her own.
This ‘millinery shield’ is increasingly becoming the First Lady’s signature. While hats featured occasionally in her husband’s first term – including a pith helmet and a fedora in Africa, and a stylish white piece for President Macron’s visit – they have gained new significance during Mr. Trump’s second term. As her public role became more reserved, her preferred hat styles now explicitly communicate a deliberate limit on what she chooses to reveal.
The purple hat perfectly complemented the dark gray Dior suit she paired with it. The suit, a double-breasted, military-style jacket with a mandarin collar, once again conveyed both a sense of guarded strength and a subtle aspiration, through its powerful associations.
Coincidentally, Dior now boasts a British connection through its new designer, Jonathan Anderson, who hails from Northern Ireland. Much like her hats, the brand itself has evolved into a kind of uniform for Mrs. Trump.
She chose Dior for a suit on the final day of the Republican National Convention and a cape for the pre-inauguration wreath-laying. Even back in 2019, she wore a Dior ivory column gown to her first British state banquet. It’s a brand that allows her to remain comfortably within her personal ‘safety zone,’ while subtly hinting at a readiness to engage in diplomatic fashion. Or, at the very least, contemplating it. Though, as ever, it remains difficult to discern her full intent from beneath that hat.