Remember the iconic ‘It bag’? For a time, it was the ultimate fashion statement, a handbag that instantly defined a moment. These coveted accessories symbolized belonging and exclusivity, sparking a collective desire to own the latest tote, shoulder bag, or clutch. It was a phenomenon of mass acquisition.
During that era, attending a Milan fashion show often felt like stepping into an ‘It bag’ convention. Designers generously distributed what they hoped would become the season’s must-have bag, and editors eagerly showcased their new treasures, lining them up like a stylish flock in the front row.
However, this era largely faded with the ascent of social media, giving way to an age of fleeting micro-trends and a fragmented fashion landscape.
(Caption) In Louise Trotter’s debut Bottega Veneta collection, the iconic intrecciato woven leather technique made an appearance in subtle details.
(Caption) … gracing elements like trench coat epaulettes, tuxedo lapels, and, naturally, various handbags.
Yet, at the recent Bottega Veneta show in Milan, new creative director Louise Trotter orchestrated a remarkable return to the ‘bag bonanza,’ albeit with a refreshed, deconstructed approach.
Her strategy began with the invitations themselves: a single, flat piece of intricately scored leather that cleverly transformed into a three-dimensional string bag. Guests enthusiastically adopted these unique creations to carry their belongings upon arrival.
Trotter also embraced Bottega Veneta’s iconic ‘intrecciato’ woven leather, a technique pioneered by founders Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro in 1966 and popularized by the brand’s first female creative director, Laura Braggion. Notably, Lauren Hutton, who famously carried a woven Bottega bag in the 1980 film “American Gigolo,” attended the show, a symbolic nod to its heritage. However, Trotter’s vision extended far beyond just handbags; she made the ‘intrecciato’ technique and its emphasis on meticulous craftsmanship the very cornerstone of her entire collection.
(Video Credit) Footage from the Bottega Veneta show, capturing the essence of Louise Trotter’s collection.
The collection featured an abundance of ‘intrecciato’: leather trench coats, gleaming patent leather tunics, tuxedo jacket lapels, overcoat belts, epaulets, collars, and even shoe uppers – all meticulously woven. From large, suitcase-sized duffels to delicate mini evening croissants, it was a veritable ‘intrecciatopalooza!’
However, this pervasive use of ‘intrecciato’ risked becoming somewhat overwhelming.
The sheer omnipresence of the woven technique overshadowed the collection’s significant suiting, causing even non-woven leather and suede pieces to evoke the silhouette of handbags. The decision to model the exaggerated, extended shoulder line of long, curving jackets and coats after the 2002 Cabat tote, despite the current trend of oversized tailoring and sloping shoulders, felt excessive – too much shoulder, too many bag allusions. In contrast, the corset tops, designed to artfully reveal the shoulders and slip casually off one arm, paired with high-waist barrel pants, struck a refreshingly cool note.
(Image Gallery) A showcase of Ms. Trotter’s innovative weaving methods at Bottega Veneta, incorporating unexpected materials like feathers, delicate chiffon, recycled fiberglass, and traditional fisherman’s knit.
The collection truly came alive when Ms. Trotter daringly reinterpreted the ‘intrecciato’ technique using unconventional materials. This included robust cotton fisherman’s knit, flowing strips of delicate chiffon, vibrant upcycled feathers, and even recycled fiberglass needles. These fiberglass elements, subtly interwoven with leather, created shimmering, almost otherworldly textures in shades of steel gray, sienna, and gold. When fashioned into sweaters and skirts, these pieces appeared to ripple and shift, as if gently brushed by an unseen force.
These creations were undeniably unique—both strangely protective and irresistibly tactile. Paired with pointy-toe cowboy clogs, which could very well become the next ‘It shoe,’ they offered a compelling contrast to the more traditional leather pieces, providing a refreshing antidote to bourgeois expectations.
Ultimately, the collection served as a powerful reminder: in a world increasingly captivated by artificial intelligence, the profound luxury lies in human handwork, rich heritage, and the boundless, sometimes peculiar, realm of human imagination. These elements, intricately woven together, represent a value worth cherishing and carrying forward.