Lombok, an island just east of Bali, is undergoing a significant transformation as Indonesia aims to replicate Bali’s tourism success. Once a serene haven for surfers and hikers, Lombok’s natural beauty and quieter appeal are now being reshaped by ambitious development plans.
Damar, a local surf guide, reflects on this shift. He recalls a childhood fear of foreigners that faded as tourism grew, but now expresses mixed feelings about the island’s development. While the promise of economic growth is welcomed, he and many others are wary of the changes, including displacement from their homes for projects like the Mandalika racetrack.
“I was angry, but I cannot do much. I cannot fight against the government,” Damar shared, highlighting the powerlessness many locals feel. Despite these challenges, he acknowledges that tourism has provided better opportunities for him and his family, opening his mind to the world through interactions with visitors.
The government’s push to create more “Balis” is evident in areas like Mandalika, with new resorts and infrastructure aiming to attract a larger international crowd. This is partly driven by Bali’s own struggles with over-tourism, traffic, and pollution.
However, the rapid development is not without its costs. The eviction of families from their homes, like Damar’s, and the demolition of beachside stalls, such as those on Tanjung Aan, have sparked protests and concerns about human rights violations. Activists and UN experts have raised alarms about inadequate compensation and resettlement plans, emphasizing that economic progress should not come at the expense of human rights or the environment.
Locals like Kartini Lumban Raja at Tanjung Aan express a desire to preserve Lombok’s unique charm, fearing that the “Balification” of the island will erode its natural beauty and local culture. They worry about losing their livelihoods and the distinct character that attracts visitors seeking an alternative to Bali’s bustling atmosphere.
Environmental concerns also loom large, with the Mandalika motorcycle Grand Prix leaving behind significant amounts of waste, highlighting the strain that mass tourism can place on local resources. There’s a growing call for Lombok to find its own identity rather than simply becoming a less crowded version of Bali.
Despite the anxieties, tourism is undeniably bringing economic benefits to many. Homestay owners like Baiq Enida Kinang Lare, known as Lara, have seen their businesses grow, providing jobs and improved living standards for their families. Yet, Lara also reflects wistfully on the past, missing the slower pace and the time spent with neighbours, a common sentiment that echoes the trade-off between preserving tradition and embracing prosperity.