“Care to taste one of Lincoln’s favorite dishes?” a red-vested waiter inquired, presenting chicken fricassee bites. “He was quite fond of fricassee, you know.”
At Keens Steakhouse, a legendary Midtown Manhattan establishment, history enthusiasts and loyal patrons converged to commemorate Abraham Lincoln’s birthday.
Beyond the fricassee, attendees savored mutton chunks, fried oysters, and crisp red apples—a menu carefully curated to reflect the 16th president’s tastes. The evening’s signature drink, a milk-bourbon punch, would have only partially delighted Lincoln; he was known for his love of milk but his infrequent consumption of alcohol.
The celebration unfolded in the steakhouse’s dimly lit, wood-paneled Lincoln Room, a revered sanctuary dedicated to Honest Abe. This historic space houses a draft of the Gettysburg Address, a wanted poster for John Wilkes Booth, and other precious relics from a collection initiated over a century ago by Albert Keen, the founder of the restaurant, which originally opened in 1885 as an exclusive men’s steakhouse.
“I’ve always felt a sense of enjoyment, even patriotism, surrounded by the history in this room at Keens,” commented Michael Jacob, an engineer. “Lincoln consistently advocated for peace, a goal we continue to pursue.”
Behind a vibrant crimson curtain, the evening’s main event awaited: the grand unveiling of an extraordinary piece of Lincolniana—an 8-foot-long, 37-star American flag. This very flag had draped his casket during the somber funeral train journey following his assassination in 1865.
As the train traveled from Washington, D.C., to Springfield, Illinois, millions of mourners gathered to pay their final respects before Lincoln’s interment. Following the procession, Major Lewis Applegate, an Army doctor, became the custodian of the flag.
The Applegate family preserved the flag for over a century before it was transferred to the Museum of Southern History in Florida. In 2024, the flag went up for auction. Tilman Fertitta, the Texas billionaire and owner of Keens, acquired it for a reported $656,250.
Prior to the unveiling, lighting designer Michael Hennes and antiques consultant Shawn Brennan meticulously examined a wall adorned with assassination-related ephemera, featuring illustrations of Booth’s fateful shot at Ford’s Theater and Lincoln’s deathbed. One artifact, in particular, caught their attention.
“There it is—the actual playbill from April 14, 1865, at Ford’s Theater,” Mr. Hennes remarked.
“Given that Keens possesses the program from that fateful night, it feels entirely appropriate that this flag has also found its home here,” Mr. Brennan noted.
Jaiden Gomez, a young coat check attendant, interjected, “Legend has it, this is the playbill he was holding, and it even bears a bloodstain.”
While sipping a martini, Mr. Hennes contemplated the somber collection of artifacts surrounding him. “I don’t consider it macabre that Keens displays this flag in a dining room,” he stated. “I find it patriotic and beautiful, and it certainly won’t deter me from enjoying my lunch.”
The ceremony soon commenced. Julia Lisowski, the general manager of the steakhouse, addressed the assembled guests from beside the curtain. “We are delighted you could join us in the Lincoln Room as we officially welcome the Abraham Lincoln Casket Flag of 1865 to its permanent residence,” she announced.
Lisowski shared the flag’s storied past, explaining it was crafted by Annin & Company, the nation’s oldest flag maker, with its 37th star presciently included for Nebraska’s anticipated statehood. She also highlighted curator Rhonda Hiser, who three years prior unearthed the flag, forgotten behind a bookshelf at the Museum of Southern History.
She extended gratitude to Tilman Fertitta, the restaurateur and casino magnate who acquired Keens two years prior, expanding his portfolio which already features establishments like Rainforest Cafe and Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Though absent from the celebration, Mr. Fertitta also holds ownership of the Houston Rockets basketball team and serves as the United States ambassador to Italy and San Marino.
At last, as the curtain was drawn aside, the crowd erupted in cheers at the sight of the majestic, hand-sewn flag. Visible along its hoist were Major Applegate’s signature and an inscription marking the date of Lincoln’s assassination.
With more milk-bourbon punch flowing, the unspoken rule of avoiding political discussions at the table gradually eased.
“Without getting overly political, our nation feels quite divided at the moment,” observed Brian Cox, an insurance broker. “Having this flag, which links us to Lincoln, might inspire people to reflect on a past era of national fracture and find common ground.”
His father, Jeff Cox, added, “With this flag now displayed in this room, it’s sure to spark conversation—positive conversation.”
Maria Fontoura, an editor at Rolling Stone, paused by a tray of gingerbread cookies, each intricately shaped like Lincoln’s head.
“I believe we’re perpetually seeking moments that rekindle our belief in the American experiment,” she articulated. “While being here tonight and observing this flag might seem small, it represents countless ideals Americans have historically strived for.”
As the evening drew to a close, a waiter brought in a final round of freshly prepared apple fritters. Jazz musician Deric Dickens and his husband, fashion designer Gregory Scott Angel, shared that they had exchanged vows at Keens five years prior.
“Lincoln witnessed one of the most tumultuous and fractured periods in our history, yet our nation endured,” Mr. Dickens reflected. “I believe he would be pleased to know that two men were married right here in this very room.”