It’s a rare and exciting moment when a dream job becomes reality. For acclaimed British fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner, that day has finally arrived.
The 35-year-old London-based designer, who once shared in a System magazine piece that collaborating with Hermès was her ultimate career goal, has now been officially named the creative director for men’s wear at the renowned French luxury brand.
This appointment comes as no surprise to fashion insiders, who have long seen Ms. Wales Bonner as a prime contender for such a prestigious role. Since launching her own label in 2014, fresh out of London’s Central Saint Martins, and cultivating a notable partnership with Adidas, her name has frequently surfaced whenever a leading position at a luxury house became available, including whispers of roles at Louis Vuitton and Givenchy.
Her selection marks a significant shift, challenging the industry’s prevailing tendency to favor creative directors who are predominantly white and male. With her Jamaican heritage, Ms. Wales Bonner makes history as the first Black woman to helm the design division of a major global fashion house.
In a recent press statement, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès’ General Artistic Director, lauded Ms. Wales Bonner for her exceptional “take on contemporary fashion, craft, and culture.”
For Hermès, this transition is particularly noteworthy, as Ms. Wales Bonner is stepping into a role that, until just last week, was one of the most enduring fixtures in the fashion world. Véronique Nichanian, the artistic director of Hermès’ men’s wear, departed on Thursday after an remarkable 37-year tenure.
While the fashion industry has seen a rapid turnover of creative directors in recent years, with many serving terms shorter than a presidential mandate, Ms. Nichanian remained a steadfast presence at Hermès. Even into her 70s, she maintained a vibrant design spirit, consistently captivating Hermès’ affluent male clientele with her use of rich, jewel-toned leathers, luxurious blanket-lined parkas, and elegant velvety suits. Her final collection for Hermès will debut in Paris next January, with Ms. Wales Bonner’s inaugural collection set to follow in January 2027.
Beyond her youth and British background, Ms. Wales Bonner brings a distinctly different design philosophy compared to Ms. Nichanian. Known for her thoughtful and understated approach, Ms. Wales Bonner’s collections often draw profound inspiration from the rich tapestry of the Black diaspora.
Her inaugural collection, aptly named “Ebonics,” was a deep exploration of flared trousers, elegant shawl collar jackets, and a striking knit featuring the words “The Black Genius.” Much like a scholarly guide, the collection’s imagery on the Wales Bonner website is complemented by a curated list of literary inspirations, including James Baldwin’s “Giovanni’s Room” and Ralph Ellison’s “Invisible Man.”
This academic rigor has been a hallmark of Ms. Wales Bonner’s career, establishing her as a prominent presence on the Paris fashion week schedule and driving her expansion into women’s wear. Her collections have explored diverse themes, from varsity jackets and fair isle knits inspired by Black American colleges to regal, stud-collared shirts and cinched blazers, drawing from the history of a Black member of the Medici family.
She eloquently described her process to The New York Times in 2023, stating, “I see my research as an artistic practice — it really is the foundation of everything I do — and clothing is a very direct way to communicate some aspects.”
Over the past decade, Ms. Wales Bonner has achieved widespread recognition, earning ‘wunderkind’ status. Her accomplishments include dressing F1 driver Lewis Hamilton for the Met Gala, creating collaborative T-shirts with Solange, accumulating numerous design accolades, and being honored as a Member of the Order of the British Empire. In 2019, she also partnered with Dior to produce a macramé reinterpretation of their classic bar jacket and skirt.
Her influence extends beyond the realm of fashion, having curated an exhibition at New York’s Museum of Modern Art and hosted a series of musical performances at London’s Serpentine Galleries, featuring artists like Sampha and Laraaji.
Crucially, Ms. Wales Bonner has also showcased a keen commercial acumen, a quality that undoubtedly appealed to Hermès, one of the few remaining independent French fashion powerhouses. She is perhaps most recognized for her enduring collaboration with Adidas, where she skillfully reinterprets the brand’s iconic styles. Examples include her sophisticated silver-tipped Millennium sneaker and the vibrant Big Bird yellow mesh SL76 shoe. Above all, she is credited with revitalizing the classic Samba sneaker, transforming it into a highly sought-after item. Her unique iterations, such as those in navy croc, leopard print, and crochet, consistently command hundreds of dollars on resale platforms.
It’s safe to assume that Hermès is eager for Ms. Wales Bonner to replicate such a resounding commercial success in her new and prominent position.