Landing your dream job is a rare feat, but for British fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner, that dream has just become a stunning reality.
The 35-year-old London-based designer, who once shared her aspiration to collaborate with Hermès, was officially announced today as the new creative director for men’s wear at the esteemed French luxury house.
For Wales Bonner, this appointment comes as no surprise to those in the know within the fashion industry. Since launching her own label in 2014, fresh out of London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art, and fostering a prominent collaboration with Adidas, her name has frequently circulated whenever a top creative role at a luxury brand became available. Whispers even linked her to prestigious positions at houses like Louis Vuitton and Givenchy.
This groundbreaking appointment defies the industry’s historical tendency to favor a particular demographic in leadership roles. With her Jamaican heritage, Ms. Wales Bonner now makes history as the first Black woman to ever lead design at a major fashion house.
In an official statement, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès’ General Artistic Director, lauded Ms. Wales Bonner’s distinctive “take on contemporary fashion, craft, and culture.”
For Hermès, Wales Bonner steps into a role previously held by a fashion legend. Just last week, Véronique Nichanian, after an incredible 37-year tenure, retired as the artistic director of Hermès’ men’s wear division, a rare constant in an ever-changing industry.
While the fashion world often sees designers rotate through labels at a rapid pace, Ms. Nichanian remained a steadfast fixture at Hermès. Even in her seventies, her designs maintained a vibrant energy, captivating Hermès’ discerning male clientele with luxurious jewel-toned leathers, cozy blanket-lined parkas, and opulent velvety suits. Her swan song collection will grace the runways of Paris in January, while Ms. Wales Bonner’s inaugural collection for Hermès is anticipated for January 2027.
Over the last decade, Ms. Wales Bonner’s collections have consistently drawn inspiration from the Black diaspora, showcasing a versatile range from artful sportswear to sophisticated, regal tailoring. She’s also a prolific collaborator, partnering with renowned artists like Kerry James Marshall and global brands such as Adidas.
More than just her youth and British background, Ms. Wales Bonner brings a distinctly different perspective compared to her predecessor. Known for her thoughtful and quietly powerful approach, her collections deeply explore and celebrate the Black diaspora.
Her inaugural collection, ‘Ebonics,’ was a profound exploration of flared trousers, elegant shawl collar jackets, and knitwear emblazoned with ‘The Black Genius.’ Much like a scholar guiding a study, her collection’s presentation on the Wales Bonner website features a rich bibliography, referencing works such as James Baldwin’s ‘Giovanni’s Room’ and Ralph Ellison’s ‘Invisible Man.’
This academic rigor has been a hallmark of her career, as Ms. Wales Bonner established herself as a regular presence at Paris Fashion Week and expanded into women’s wear. Themes like Black American colleges inspired collections featuring ‘WB’ varsity jackets, classic fair isle knits, and duffle coats. Another collection, sparked by the history of a Black member of the Medici family, resulted in opulent stud-collared dress shirts, elegantly cinched blazers, and sophisticated tailcoat-inspired jackets.
She once articulated her philosophy, stating, ‘I see my research as an artistic practice — it really is the foundation of everything I do — and clothing is a very direct way to communicate some aspects.’
Over the last ten years, Ms. Wales Bonner has garnered ‘wunderkind’ status, dressing notable figures like F1 driver Lewis Hamilton for the Met Gala and collaborating with artists such as Solange on T-shirt designs. Her accolades include numerous design awards and an appointment as a Member of the Order of the British Empire. Notably, in 2019, she partnered with Dior to create a macramé reinterpretation of their iconic bar jacket and skirt.
Her influence extends beyond the realm of fashion, as she has curated an exhibition at New York’s Museum of Modern Art and organized a series of captivating musical performances at London’s Serpentine Galleries, featuring artists like Sampha and Laraaji.
Demonstrating a sharp commercial acumen, Ms. Wales Bonner is a natural fit for Hermès, one of the few remaining independent French fashion houses. She is arguably most recognized for her enduring collaboration with Adidas, where she ingeniously reinterprets classic styles. Examples include her distinctive silver-tipped Millennium sneaker, or her vibrant, Big Bird-yellow mesh SL76 shoe. Crucially, she is credited with transforming the once-common Samba sneaker into a highly coveted item. Her unique editions—in navy croc, leopard print, and crochet—consistently command prices of several hundred dollars on luxury resale platforms.
It’s safe to assume Hermès hopes Ms. Wales Bonner can replicate that level of commercial success in her new, pivotal role.