The influential designer Phoebe Philo has a knack for knowing what women want to wear, and it turns out, that intuition extends to their nails. A recent campaign for her label showcased French actress and director Mati Diop sporting square nails painted in various muted shades. This striking look, particularly an image of Diop with intertwined fingers, quickly captivated online audiences and became a prominent feature in marketing materials.
The manicure rapidly caught fire across the internet, earning praise in articles from WWD, Marie Claire’s British edition, and Vogue, with the latter even declaring it ‘the manicure for fall.’ However, keen observers quickly pointed out that much of the initial coverage failed to credit the brilliant artist behind the trend: Sylvie Macmillan.
Sylvie Macmillan, a talented nail artist based in London, boasts an impressive portfolio, having collaborated with major brands like Miu Miu, Burberry, Mugler, and Nike, and styled shoots for renowned publications such as Vogue and Dazed. She found it disappointing, though not entirely surprising, that her work often went uncredited in initial reports. Having worked extensively in fashion, she understands that while brands commission her for projects, explicit public credit isn’t always a given.
With a background in technical arts and special effects, Macmillan transitioned to nail artistry after experience in set design and model making. Her work ranges from the dramatic to the subtly understated, much like the multi-toned, muted manicure seen on Mati Diop, which she likened to experimenting with different polishes at a salon. During the pandemic, when demand for nail artists waned, Macmillan embarked on a new creative journey, crafting elaborate table candelabras. This passion project eventually led her to pivot careers, leaving nail artistry to become a full-time home wares designer. She shared that this career shift reignited her creative spark, offering the challenge and excitement of starting anew.
Shop Talk
Recent fashion highlights include NikeSkims, the activewear collaboration between Nike and Kim Kardashian’s shapewear brand, which launched with a high-profile campaign featuring Serena Williams, Jordan Chiles, and Sha’Carri Richardson. The collection, featuring sweat-wicking and body-sculpting pieces, ranges from $38 to $138.
Reformation teamed up with model and lifestyle influencer Nara Smith to release a 20-piece collection of vintage-inspired dresses, autumn sweaters, and gingham pajamas, all echoing Smith’s signature elegant domestic style, with prices starting at $148.
Uniqlo U, Uniqlo’s premium line helmed by Lemaire designers Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, unveiled its latest collection. It features understated tees, sweaters, and outerwear, emphasizing innovative fabric combinations like nylon and merino wool, all under $150.
Marc Jacobs and Gibson collaborated on a new line of guitars and accessories, which will be showcased at a pop-up at Nordstrom’s Fifth Avenue store. The collection includes playful illustrations by British artist Hattie Stewart on items like guitar straps and picks.
Finally, actors Dylan Sprouse and model Barbara Palvin are the new faces of Ray-Ban Meta’s second-generation smart glasses. These upgraded glasses offer an improved camera and hands-free filming capabilities, starting at $379.
Chatting With … a Watchdog of Fashion’s Environmental Footprint
Beyond the glamour of New York Fashion Week, September also marks Climate Week NYC, an annual gathering of global leaders in business, politics, and technology. This year’s event unfolded amid growing concerns over climate disasters and a rollback of environmental protections in the United States.
Remake, an organization dedicated to climate activism within the fashion industry, hosted a two-day event as part of Climate Week NYC. Workshops and discussions focused on understanding and addressing fashion’s substantial environmental impact. In an interview, Ayesha Barenblat, founder of Remake, discussed the current state of climate activism in fashion and what the future might hold.
When asked about companies genuinely driving change, Barenblat highlighted smaller brands, both domestic and international, and innovative technologies in resale and rental. She emphasized the importance of keeping garments in circulation longer rather than constantly creating new ones.
Regarding the recent silence from many brands that once enthusiastically declared sustainability goals, Barenblat expressed skepticism about voluntary commitments. She noted that these pledges often fall by the wayside as political and economic conditions shift, leaving little genuine progress to report beyond a few ‘sustainable’ capsule collections.
However, Barenblat pointed to bright spots, particularly in overlooked areas like human rights and labor. She cited California’s Garment Worker Protection Act as a significant achievement, ensuring minimum wage for garment workers. This legislation helps ethical brands compete with fast fashion by leveling the playing field for fair labor practices within the state.