Let’s be direct about the opening of Calvin Klein’s latest runway in early 2026: it was all about ‘bicepmaxxing.’ Picture a parade of models in sleeveless suits, their intensely sculpted upper arms commanding attention, almost at eye-level with the front row. One could almost imagine a dedicated styling assistant backstage, meticulously grooming each arm hair to perfection. These weren’t just fit models; they seemed hand-picked for their chiseled physiques.
Was this a deliberate dive by Calvin Klein’s designer, Veronica Leoni, into the current cultural obsession with body optimization, peptides, and protein-packed routines? Not quite, she clarified after the show. Her vision, she explained, was to ‘celebrate that cult of the body that is so Calvin’— a clear homage to the brand’s iconic legacy of minimalist designs famously worn by everyone from Mark Wahlberg to Bad Bunny.
A Calvin Klein model in a sleeveless suit, showcasing prominent biceps. Credit: Simbarashe Cha/The New York Times
However, this ‘Venice Beach interlude,’ as it felt, threatened to overshadow the entire collection. I found myself needing to revisit the show’s imagery later to even recall the sleeveless suits themselves, only to be left underwhelmed. Featuring four buttons to the mid-sternum, they struck me as baggy, unflattering, and distinctly stuck in the ’90s. Their common presence on resale sites today speaks volumes: these designs aren’t in demand.
This highlights a core challenge for Leoni’s Calvin Klein. Roughly a year into her tenure, she appears so engrossed in the brand’s rich history that she sometimes misses the mark on designing for the contemporary moment.
Yet, there were flashes of brilliance. An oversized mac with a chic leather collar, and a bomber jacket paired with a striking purplish-gray gilet, truly captured my attention. Another piece, a jacket adorned with ruby red shearling shoulders, proved that Leoni possesses the ability to innovate and deliver that distinct Calvin ‘oomph’ — but tailored for this era, not 1996. Perhaps ‘contempomaxxing’ is the approach she should embrace.
Other Things Worth Knowing About:
Fashion details at Calvin Klein, including minimalist tailoring, shearling, and leather. Credit: Photographs by Simbarashe Cha/The New York Times
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Clavicular, the Kick streaming looksmaxxer (known for popularizing the ironic “maxxing” suffix online), debuted as a model at Elena Velez’s recent runway show. For a deeper dive into this “gigachad of the moment,” Joe Bernstein’s profile is a must-read.
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Can ASAP Rocky entice you with a mink baby carrier? At his AWGE fashion show, the multi-talented artist showcased a hard-shell stroller and luxurious fur baby carriers, seemingly designed for the most pampered infants. It certainly made my son’s BabyBjörn seem rather modest.
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Before Saturday’s shows, I visited Ven Space, a Brooklyn men’s store renowned for tempting finances. There, I was captivated by a pair of Italian-made Sena loafers. These shoes perfectly encapsulated current “cool” footwear trends: square-toed, wafer-soled, and elegantly minimalist.
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Observing the celebrity seating at Eckhaus Latta felt like an eight-hour binge of TikTok hair trend videos at once. In other words, it showcased every magnificent variation of what was almost, but not quite, a mullet.
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Keep an eye on Zane Li. After Lii’s latest sportswear collection, a Parisian friend hailed designer Zane Li as the “savior” of New York fashion. While comparisons to Auralee and Raf Simons (especially for his use of graphic, primary colors) were mentioned, I believe Li, a recent FIT graduate, is still refining some design school tendencies, favoring interesting fits over universally flattering ones. Nevertheless, his raw talent is undeniable, and greater finesse is surely on its way.
“I’ll do anything for the look.”
A young man on the street, smiling broadly, in a white striped shirt and shorts and a white windbreaker. On his feet are moccasins. Credit: Aeon/GC Images
This quote came from comedian Benito Skinner, who bravely risked frostbite by attending Calvin Klein’s show in shorts on a freezing day. While he insisted he wasn’t that cold, he admitted he’d be ‘sprinting to the car’ the moment the show concluded.
The Indelible Fit of the Day
A model in a striped sleeveless turtleneck and a black midi-skirt unzipped to the thigh. In the background are blurred spectators. Credit: Simbarashe Cha/The New York Times
This look perfectly illustrates why Eckhaus Latta consistently leads New York’s fashion scene. Designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta possess a remarkable talent for reimagining familiar American sportswear staples—like this prismatic knit, reminiscent of ’00s Gap campaigns—until they feel fresh and vital. The sweater’s intentionally shrunken proportions hit precisely where current fashion trends are headed.
Style Outside
A woman with dark, curly hair stands, wearing a long coat in a black and beige ikat pattern with her hands in the coat’s pockets. Credit: Simbarashe Cha/The New York Times