Rekha Boggarapu, the creative force behind almost all the costume designs in the Telugu film Mirai, recently expressed a mix of relief and pride, calling it one of her most demanding projects yet. She lauded cinematographer-director Karthik Gattamneni and his team for their impeccable planning and communication throughout the production. “We had absolute clarity on every character’s backstory, down to the production design, color palettes, and fabric textures,” she explained.
Rekha’s journey into film costume design began with the 2018 spy thriller Goodachari. Her portfolio quickly expanded to include films like Major, Adivi Sesh’s segments in HIT 2, and portions of Gaami, alongside numerous music videos and web series.
From Legal Texts to Textiles
Surprisingly, a career in fashion design and cinema wasn’t an obvious choice for Rekha. With a postgraduate degree in constitutional law and diplomas in forensic sciences and fashion design, she amusingly describes her diverse academic background. “I hail from a family deeply rooted in academics. My grandfather was a headmaster, my mother is an educationist, and my father is a lawyer with the Crime Branch,” she revealed.
Despite her academic prowess, Rekha felt no pull towards traditional fields like medicine or engineering. Her desire to pursue a creative path initially met with parental resistance. “After completing my law degree, I felt a strong need to break free from the comfort zone my parents had established for me,” she said.
Shriya as Ambica; a sketch of her ensemble | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
She eventually convinced her family to support her in opening a boutique. An unexpected turning point came when an actor commissioned her for a photoshoot, sparking a chain of events that led her to the film industry. This connection ultimately introduced her to director Sashi Kiran Tikka, actor Adivi Sesh, and the creative team behind Goodachari.
The Art of Cinematic Realism
Rekha’s design philosophy leans towards depicting characters as authentically as possible on screen, an approach that resonated strongly in films like Goodachari and Major. She proudly recounted the moment the Indian Army approved the costume designs for Major, the biopic of Major Sandeep Unnikrishnan, without any objections. “The uniforms for military personnel and police officers were intentionally kept understated to avoid drawing undue attention,” she noted.
Since then, she has upheld a core principle: a deep understanding of each character and their narrative. “Grasping a character’s background, education, and even their problem-solving style significantly simplifies the design process,” she explained.
However, projects like Gaami and Mirai presented a new challenge, requiring her to craft looks for entirely imaginative worlds. She contributed to certain segments of Gaami before taking maternity leave.
Mirai offered Rekha an expansive canvas, featuring a diverse cast including Shriya Saran, Manchu Manoj, Jayaram, Jagapathi Babu, and Ritika Nayak, along with numerous supporting and junior artists. “It was particularly challenging because we intentionally avoided drawing references from international cinema for any of the character looks,” she affirmed.
For Shriya Saran, who embodies Ambica, the leader of a spiritual clan, Rekha meticulously layered silk and velvet. “For the self-immolation sequence, we used five distinct fabrics: a silk skirt, a raw silk blouse with delicate crochet lace, and a Chinon silk dupatta adorned with velvet accents. Shriya’s appearance was designed to be rich yet subtle, portraying a wise woman capable of foreseeing the future.” In stark contrast, Ritika Nayak, playing a young sadhvi, was dressed in soft, ethereal cottons.
A Tapestry of Colors and Textures
Rekha ingeniously incorporated unconventional elements like curtains, throws, and blankets to introduce unique textures, seamlessly blending them with traditional fabrics. Jayaram, who portrays the revered sage Agastya, wore shawls with defined borders, complemented by subtle touches such as long, dark nails that were barely perceptible on screen.
Manchu Manoj, playing Mahavir Lama, the menacing figure wielding the black sword, was enveloped in layers of red, black, and brown. “His multi-layered attire symbolized the various obstacles he had to overcome to achieve his destructive ambitions. Reflecting his dark past, his clothing intentionally lacked any hint of hope. The fabrics also possessed a subtle sheen, hinting at the immense wealth he accumulated alongside his power,” she elaborated.
The Nuances of Darkness
Manchu Manoj as the Black Sword; a sketch of his ensemble | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Rekha drew parallels between Manoj and Jagapathi Babu, who portrays the ancient guardian of one of the seven holy grimoires. “The black in their costumes signifies their mastery over dark arts. However, Jagapathi Babu’s character utilizes his knowledge for benevolent purposes, hence the black is softened with vibrant streaks of red and orange,” she explained.
She candidly admitted losing count of the sheer number of characters she designed. Certain scenes, including those set at the Kumbh Mela and a song sequence featuring Nidhhi Agerwal and numerous dancers, were ultimately edited to shorten the film’s runtime. Other segments demanded costumes for characters originating from Japan and Morocco. “As the film’s production spanned a considerable period, some of my assistants moved on. I consistently maintained a team of two to ten members on set to ensure smooth production and fittings,” she said.
Rekha intentionally stepped back from designing the superhero attire for Teja Sajja’s character, Superyodha. “It would have been overwhelming. About a week into filming, when the filmmakers suggested bringing in another designer, I readily agreed.” Lanka Santoshi, who had previously designed for Teja’s films, including Hanu-Man, took over that responsibility.
Looking ahead, Rekha is busy with several exciting projects: the sequel to Goodachari, titled G2; Dacoit, starring Adivi Sesh and Mrunal Thakur; Dandora, featuring Sivaji and Laya; and a new film with Sharwanand. “Among these, Dandora is a smaller, yet incredibly impactful and poignant story,” she shared.
Ultimately, witnessing her parents’ appreciation for her work on Mirai has been the most fulfilling aspect of her journey. “I now fully grasp their initial hesitations about my chosen path. I’m truly delighted they are proud of my accomplishments,” Rekha concluded.