Saulo Jennings, a celebrated Brazilian chef, had a clear vision when he learned he’d be cooking for a British royal: to highlight the Amazon’s crowning culinary jewel, the pirarucu. This magnificent, meaty river fish was to be his star.
Prince William was set to host the prestigious Earthshot Prize environmental awards gala in Rio de Janeiro, a grand affair for 700 guests marking his inaugural visit to Brazil. Crafting the evening’s canapés seemed like an ideal fit for Jennings, renowned in the Amazon for his dedication to sustainable, rainforest-sourced ingredients.
However, a significant stipulation emerged from the Earthshot organization: the entire menu needed to be 100% vegan.
Initially, Jennings believed he must have misunderstood and offered to simply include a vegan option. But upon learning that he couldn’t use any of the beloved river fish species — ingredients fundamental to his culinary identity and the Amazon’s gastronomic heritage — his surprise quickly turned to offense.
“It’s like asking Iron Maiden to play jazz,” Jennings famously quipped in a recent interview. He felt it demonstrated “a profound lack of respect for local cuisine and our culinary traditions.”
Despite his reservations, and after considerable persuasion from the museum slated to host the gala, Jennings reportedly crafted a vegan menu. This alternative featured Amazonian staples like cassava root, jambu leaf, and Brazil nuts. Yet, by that point, the catering discussions had unraveled, and he was no longer slated to cater the November 5th event.
“I hold no ill will towards vegans or the British,” he stated, “but I simply cannot compromise my culinary mission and the essence of my cooking.”
News of the chef’s principled stand quickly dominated Brazilian headlines. Many interpreted the menu’s demands as a direct slight against the Amazon region’s vibrant culinary heritage, especially significant as the area prepares to host the United Nations’ annual climate conference, an event Prince William, heads of state, scientists, and policymakers will all attend.
Jennings expressed further bewilderment, noting that he had previously cooked for King Charles III, Prince William’s father, at the British Embassy in Brazil without any such dietary restrictions.
“I even made fish and chips,” he recalled, “but with pirarucu, of course.”
This culinary standoff has ignited a broader debate about what truly constitutes climate-friendly food, particularly as consumers increasingly scrutinize sustainability claims and brands rush to market responsibly sourced ingredients.
While a spokesperson for Prince William declined to comment, an anonymous source close to the climate event clarified that the Prince himself was not involved in the menu’s specifics.
The source emphasized that the Earthshot Prize, which grants millions to environmental innovators, typically requests a vegetarian menu as a standard commitment to sustainability, rather than a strict vegan one.
Ultimately, the anonymous source revealed, Jennings was not chosen to cater the event due to budgetary considerations, not because of his initial hesitation regarding a fish-free menu.
It’s worth noting the distinction: a vegetarian menu excludes meat and fish, whereas a vegan diet eliminates all animal products, including dairy and honey.
Jennings has built his career championing the idea that genuine sustainability in cuisine is rooted in the traditional cooking methods passed down through generations by Indigenous communities in his native Amazon.
“We consume what the forests and rivers provide,” explained Jennings, who also serves as a U.N. gastronomy ambassador. “Some days it’s fish, other days nuts and açai. This natural cycle, he asserts, embodies true sustainability.”
Environmental proponents argue that supporting the sustainable utilization of the Amazon’s abundant resources is crucial to preventing its destruction. This includes the responsible harvesting of items like Brazil nuts and regulated fishing of indigenous species that flourish in the Amazonian waterways.
The pirarucu itself represents a significant conservation triumph. This ancient fish, capable of growing to an astonishing 440 pounds, faced near extinction mere decades ago due to unchecked illegal poaching.
However, dedicated community projects across the Amazon have successfully curtailed overfishing and established robust, sustainable pirarucu supply chains. Now, this responsibly sourced fish finds its way to chefs like Jennings, who feature it in sophisticated dishes across his three Brazilian restaurants.
In the coming weeks, Jennings will have another chance to proudly showcase his region’s culinary traditions. He’s been commissioned to cook for both the Norwegian and Chinese delegations attending the climate conference.
Furthermore, he announced, he will cater a dinner reception for various heads of state, personally requested by Brazilian President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva.
So, what can guests expect on that menu?
“With all due respect,” he declared with a smile, “there will be fish.”
Lis Moriconi contributed to this report.