In Luca Guadagnino’s compelling psychological thriller, “After the Hunt,” Julia Roberts’s Yale professor character embodies an understated yet sophisticated style. Her wardrobe, featuring cream suits, wide-leg jeans, blazers, and button-up shirts, clearly communicates practical elegance and impeccable taste. However, it’s her distinctive chunky gold jewelry that truly hints at a deeper, more intriguing side to her persona.
This is precisely where Italian designer Ilaria Icardi stepped in. Her pseudonymous jewelry line adorns Ms. Roberts’s character throughout the film, showcasing exquisite pieces like a richly textured 18-karat gold ribbed bracelet (price available upon request), a unique gold magnifying glass pendant on a long chain ($10,630), and a striking enamel and diamond ring ($15,041).
Fashion has always been a powerful element in Guadagnino’s cinematic narratives. For his previous film, “Challengers,” the costumes were masterfully handled by Jonathan Anderson, Dior’s acclaimed new designer. Guadagnino consistently demonstrates an extraordinary ability to elevate and champion new design talents.
“Luca is a truly fantastic friend,” shared Icardi during a Zoom call from her vacation retreat on Pantelleria, a volcanic Italian island cherished by the European fashion community and the very location where Guadagnino filmed his 2015 movie, “A Bigger Splash.” She recounted, “They expressed that my pieces would perfectly complement the character. I sent them around seven or eight items, and they ended up utilizing almost all of them.”
Icardi’s jewelry collection—featuring elegant chain necklaces, captivating pendants, and distinctive signet rings—is deeply personal. Each piece is thoughtfully inspired by her global travels and treasured items from her father’s design archives.
The film is set to premiere at the New York Film Festival this Friday, a timing that perfectly coincides with Milan Fashion Week. This alignment is particularly noteworthy, as Ms. Icardi maintains a demanding full-time position as the design director for women’s wear at Prada.
Icardi, 53, grew up in Valenza, a town in northern Italy renowned for its exquisite fine jewelry production. Her father, Umberto Icardi, established his own jewelry line there in the late 1960s. After leaving home, she pursued fashion studies in Milan, subsequently dedicating decades to her career while living and working between the vibrant fashion capitals of Paris and London.
Her impressive career includes a significant tenure at Etro, where she was instrumental in developing Hugo Boss’s inaugural women’s ready-to-wear collection in the 1990s. By 2001, she joined Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent, where she remained for a decade.
In 2009, Icardi embraced a new professional challenge, becoming the design director under Phoebe Philo at Celine, a role that required her to split her time between London and Paris. “I genuinely longed for an escape, an adventure,” she remarked with a casual shrug.
“We cultivated a very close working relationship,” she noted, reflecting on her time with Philo, which lasted until 2013. “Phoebe is undeniably exacting, and in the beginning, it truly felt like a start-up – incredibly intense.”
“Her wardrobe choices embody a subtle masculine allure — carefully selected pieces rather than an abundance,” observed Giulia Piersanti, the costume designer for “After the Hunt.”
Icardi further explained, “When you’re designing for a major brand, your personal connection to the product isn’t always essential. But with Celine, for the first time, I genuinely adored what we were creating — it was minimal, yet not truly minimal; I loved the women we were designing for and the entire ethos we were striving to build.”
After the birth of her daughter, now 12, Icardi chose to remain in London, taking on the role of design director for Victoria Beckham. She fondly described Ms. Beckham as “a delightful individual who entrusted me with significant creative freedom.” Her career later led her to Bottega Veneta.
Icardi perceives London’s style as a symbol of liberation. In contrast, she noted, “In Italy, we adhere to dressing for specific occasions. We dress! In Paris, there’s a distinct culture of chic, but it comes with greater constraint.”
With a career primarily spent shaping the aesthetic narratives behind the scenes, Icardi’s unique design signatures subtly influence the brands she works for. “I’m consistently drawn to a touch of classicism,” she shared. “A timeless double-breasted jacket, a simple T-shirt, well-fitted denim. I appreciate pieces that you can effortlessly throw on.”
“I also infused that philosophy into my jewelry line,” she continued. “It’s about pairing something refined with something a little unexpected, even a touch of ‘bad taste.’ I find that juxtaposition incredibly appealing.”
Her personal foray into jewelry design began just before the pandemic hit in 2020. “It truly started as a homemade endeavor,” she recalled. “I simply wanted to embark on a small, personal adventure.” Collaborating with her brother, Lorenzo Icardi, a skilled gemologist, she launched a modest collection that drew inspiration from her global travels and precious pieces from her father’s extensive archives.
Ilaria Icardi photographed at her Milan residence in September, amidst her collection.
Among her early enthusiasts was Giulia Piersanti, the costume designer for “After the Hunt,” who became an immediate fan.
“Julia Roberts’s character, Alma, embodies a style that is both effortless and almost uniform-like,” Ms. Piersanti conveyed via email. “Her wardrobe choices carry a subtle masculine allure — comprising very few, yet meticulously chosen, pieces. I discovered that Ilaria’s jewelry perfectly complemented this vision, while also elevating her overall appearance.”
Icardi herself was seen wearing a handcrafted gold chain. “It’s from my father,” she said, touching the piece. Her personal collection also includes a charming gold spaceman pendant she designed and a functional gold whistle pendant.
“I jokingly use it to call my daughter when she’s not paying attention,” she quipped. “But truly, I love it as an object; it’s a direct link back to the cherished trinkets I played with as a child.”
At present, Icardi cherishes the boutique scale of her jewelry line. “I serve, perhaps, 100 clients globally,” she shared. “They not only purchase pieces but often return, requesting custom adjustments or redesigns. This fosters a genuine connection and a strong relationship, which I truly value.”