When renowned chef Saulo Jennings learned he would be cooking for an heir to the British throne, his mind immediately turned to the Amazon’s crowning culinary jewel: the magnificent, succulent pirarucu river fish.
Prince William was set to host a prestigious environmental awards ceremony, the Earthshot Prize, for 700 guests in Rio de Janeiro this coming November. This marked the prince’s first visit to Brazil, and Jennings, an acclaimed chef celebrated for his use of sustainable rainforest ingredients, saw it as a golden opportunity to highlight Amazonian cuisine.
However, a significant hurdle emerged: the menu, Jennings was informed by the Earthshot organization, needed to be entirely vegan.
Initially, convinced there must have been a misunderstanding, the chef offered to incorporate a vegan option. But when he was unequivocally told that the beloved river fish species, which are fundamental to both his dishes and the region’s culinary identity, could not be served, Jennings expressed deep offense.
“It’s like asking Iron Maiden to play jazz,” Jennings remarked in a recent interview. He emphasized that the demand demonstrated “a lack of respect for local cuisine, for our culinary tradition.”
Despite his strong reservations, and after considerable persuasion from the museum slated to host the event, Jennings did craft a vegan menu. It drew inspiration from Amazonian staples like cassava root, jambu leaf, and Brazil nuts. Yet, by this point, negotiations for the event’s catering had faltered, and Jennings is no longer slated to cater the November 5th gathering.
“I have nothing against vegans or British people,” he clarified. “But I don’t want to abandon my culinary mission.”
The chef’s public stance against the menu requirement quickly garnered attention in Brazil, where many viewed the request as an affront to the rich gastronomic heritage of the Amazon region. This comes as the United Nations’ annual climate conference, which William and other global leaders will attend, is set to be held in the area.
Jennings found the situation particularly puzzling, especially since he had previously cooked without issue for King Charles III’s coronation ceremony at the British Embassy in Brazil.
“I made fish and chips,” he recalled, “but with pirarucu.”
The controversy has also sparked broader discussions about what truly constitutes climate-friendly food, as consumers increasingly prioritize sustainability and brands strive to market responsibly sourced ingredients.
A spokesperson for Prince William refrained from commenting on the matter. However, a source close to the climate event, speaking anonymously due to the sensitive nature of the discussions, stated that the prince was not involved in the menu decisions.
The source explained that the Earthshot Prize event consistently opts for a vegetarian menu, not vegan, as part of its overarching commitment to sustainability, and had requested a vegetarian menu. They added that Jennings was ultimately not chosen as the caterer due to budgetary constraints, rather than any objection to preparing a fish-free menu.
It’s important to note that while a vegetarian menu excludes meat and fish, a vegan diet extends to omitting all animal-derived products, including dairy, eggs, and honey.
Chef Jennings has built his career championing the idea that genuine sustainability is deeply rooted in the traditional cooking methods passed down through generations by Indigenous communities in his native region.
“We eat whatever the forests give us, whatever the rivers give us,” stated Jennings, who also serves as a U.N. gastronomy ambassador. “Some days, we eat fish. Other days, we eat nuts and açai. This is also sustainable.”
Environmental advocates underscore that a critical strategy to combat Amazonian deforestation involves promoting the sustainable utilization of its abundant natural resources. This includes activities such as harvesting Brazil nuts and implementing controlled fishing practices for native fish species thriving in Amazonian rivers.
The pirarucu, a prehistoric fish capable of growing up to 440 pounds, exemplifies a successful conservation story. Decades ago, rampant illegal poaching pushed it towards extinction. However, recent years have seen numerous community-led initiatives in the Amazon effectively curbing overfishing and establishing sustainable pirarucu supply chains. This responsibly sourced fish is then supplied to chefs like Jennings, who transform it into exquisite dishes served in his three Brazilian restaurants.
In the coming weeks, Jennings will have another chance to celebrate his region’s culinary heritage. He has been commissioned to cook for both the Norwegian and Chinese delegations at the climate conference.
Furthermore, he is scheduled to cater a dinner reception for heads of state, a request personally made by Brazilian President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva.
And what will be on that menu?
“With all due respect,” Jennings declared, “there will be fish.”
Lis Moriconi contributed reporting.