Landing a dream job is a rare feat, but for British fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner, that aspiration has now become her exciting new reality.
The 35-year-old London-based designer, who once shared in an interview with System magazine that it was her dream to collaborate with Hermès, has officially been appointed as the creative director for men’s wear at the renowned French luxury brand.
This appointment for Wales Bonner comes as no surprise to fashion insiders, who have long predicted such a significant career step. Since launching her own label in 2014, immediately after graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art, and establishing a notable partnership with Adidas, her name has consistently surfaced whenever a top creative role at a major luxury house became available. She was previously rumored for positions at industry giants like Louis Vuitton and Givenchy.
Notably, her selection challenges the prevailing industry trend of appointing predominantly white male creative directors. With her father hailing from Jamaica, Wales Bonner makes history as the first Black woman to ever lead the design vision for a major fashion house.
At Hermès, Wales Bonner steps into a role that, until just last week, represented a rare constant in the often-volatile fashion world. Véronique Nichanian, who had served as the artistic director of Hermès’ men’s wear division for an impressive 37 years, retired last Thursday.
In a recent press statement, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, the General Artistic Director of Hermès, lauded Wales Bonner’s distinctive ‘take on contemporary fashion, craft, and culture.’
While the fashion industry has seen an accelerated turnover of creative directors, with tenures often shorter than a single presidential term, Nichanian remarkably maintained her position at Hermès. Even into her 70s, she continued to imbue her designs with a vibrant energy, delighting Hermès’ affluent male clientele with luxurious jewel-toned leathers, cozy blanket-lined parkas, and sophisticated velvety suits. Her final collection for the brand is slated for a January showing in Paris, with Wales Bonner’s inaugural collection for Hermès set to debut in January 2027.
More than just a young British designer, Wales Bonner brings a distinctly different aesthetic compared to Nichanian. Known for her thoughtful and quiet approach, Wales Bonner’s collections draw deep inspiration from the Black diaspora.
Her inaugural collection, aptly named ‘Ebonics,’ featured thoughtful interpretations of flared trousers, elegant shawl collar jackets, and knitwear emblazoned with ‘The Black Genius.’ Much like an academic guiding an exploration, the collection’s visuals on the Wales Bonner website are paired with a comprehensive list of influences, including literary works such as James Baldwin’s ‘Giovanni’s Room’ and Ralph Ellison’s ‘Invisible Man.’
This academic rigor has been a consistent thread throughout Wales Bonner’s career, as she solidified her presence on the Paris Fashion Week schedule and ventured into women’s wear. She drew inspiration from Black American colleges for a collection featuring ‘WB’ varsity jackets, classic fair isle knits, and duffle coats. Another collection, inspired by the narrative of a Black member of the Medici family, resulted in majestic stud-collared dress shirts, elegantly cinched hourglass blazers, and sophisticated tailcoat-inspired jackets.
“I view my research as an artistic endeavor — it truly underpins everything I create — and fashion offers a very direct means to convey certain ideas,” she shared in an interview with The New York Times in 2023.
Over the past ten years, Wales Bonner has ascended to wunderkind status in the fashion world. Her accomplishments include styling F1 driver Lewis Hamilton for the Met Gala and creating exclusive T-shirts with Solange. She has garnered numerous prestigious design awards and was honored with an appointment as a Member of the Order of the British Empire. In 2019, she notably collaborated with Dior, offering a macramé reinterpretation of their iconic bar jacket and skirt.
Beyond the fashion realm, Wales Bonner has also made a significant cultural impact. She curated an exhibit at New York’s Museum of Modern Art and organized a series of musical performances at London’s Serpentine Galleries, featuring artists such as Sampha and Laraaji.
Her keen commercial acumen likely played a role in attracting Hermès, one of the few remaining independent French fashion houses. Wales Bonner is arguably most recognized for her enduring collaboration with Adidas, where she masterfully reinterprets the brand’s classic designs. Notable examples include her sophisticated silver-tipped Millennium sneaker, and the vibrant Big Bird yellow mesh SL76 shoe. Crucially, she is credited with transforming the once-common Samba sneaker into a highly sought-after item. Her unique iterations, featuring navy croc, leopard print, and crochet details, consistently fetch hundreds of dollars on resale platforms like StockX.
It’s safe to assume that Hermès would be more than pleased if Wales Bonner could replicate such a resounding success in her new, prominent position.