Riyadh Fashion Week, now in its third year, began with a surprising opening act: the iconic Vivienne Westwood brand. This marked the first time an international label graced the runways of the Saudi Arabian event, founded by Britain’s legendary ‘queen of punk’.
The choice seemed unconventional, given that the event is spearheaded by a royal in a conservative Islamic nation with strict dress codes. Vivienne Westwood herself was known for her fiercely provocative style, launching punk fashion in the 1970s by outfitting the Sex Pistols in torn, adorned, and overtly rebellious clothing. Before her passing in 2022, her luxury brand continued to champion her strong left-wing activism.
Coincidentally, this week saw the Vivienne Foundation, her established charity, re-release one of her infamous early designs: a T-shirt adorned with framed female breasts. This very shirt was famously worn by a Sex Pistols guitarist during a scandalous 1976 television interview that shocked the British public.
Such attire would likely incur a fine under Saudi Arabia’s public decency laws. This highlights a broader paradox: while the crown prince has relaxed some social rules over the last decade, he has simultaneously enforced a strict crackdown on dissent.
Attendees at a recent Riyadh Fashion Week gala. This year marks the third iteration of the fashion showcase, and the first time globally renowned designers have participated, signaling a new direction for the kingdom’s cultural landscape.
However, for many Saudi designers, the inclusion of such a rebellious brand simply reflects the changing times. They view it as proof of official commitments to boost the kingdom’s cultural appeal and foster a vibrant creative community.
Mohammed Khoja, 38, founder of the Saudi brand Hindamme, who is scheduled to present at Riyadh Fashion Week on Sunday, described it as ‘a significant platform for the region.’
Khoja expressed immense excitement to be showcasing alongside ‘huge, very respected global brands’ like Vivienne Westwood, who opened the event, and Stella McCartney, who will close it. He hopes this collaboration ushers in a new era for Saudi designers.
He noted that creativity was historically overshadowed by banking and petroleum as Saudi society’s primary economic drivers. When he launched Hindamme in 2016, Khoja felt that ‘creativity wasn’t truly part of the public consciousness,’ despite earlier acclaimed designers like Adnan Akbar and Yahya Al-Bishri having dressed figures such as Princess Diana.
Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week in 2010. The late designer, who passed away in 2022, was celebrated for her distinctive edgy fashion and passionate left-wing activism.
Under the leadership of Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, Saudi Arabia has significantly eased religious regulations and is actively working to diversify its oil-dependent economy. This includes substantial investments in business, sports, tourism, and culture, alongside hosting major international events, all under the umbrella of ‘Vision 2030.’ Fashion is a key component of this ambitious plan.
Recent initiatives underscore this commitment: an $80 million fashion fund was established this month, and the Ministry of Culture hosted its inaugural Cultural Investment Conference focusing on ‘advancing cultural capital.’ Additionally, the prestigious Italian fashion school Istituto Marangoni launched a Riyadh campus in August.
These cultural overtures, however, haven’t been without controversy. Human rights organizations and public figures accuse Saudi Arabia of using these events to divert attention from internal repression, arguing that international involvement legitimizes such efforts. Notably, comedians like Marc Maron recently criticized peers, including Dave Chappelle, for performing at the Riyadh Comedy Festival.
The announcement of Vivienne Westwood’s participation specifically drew sharp criticism from her granddaughter, Cora Corré. She publicly stated to The Guardian that the brand’s decision contradicted her grandmother’s core values. Corré had previously distanced herself from the company, citing a departure from its original ethos, though she remains involved with the Vivienne Foundation. Neither she, the foundation, nor the Vivienne Westwood company offered further comment on the matter.
The Vivienne Westwood brand had previously framed its Middle Eastern debut as an opportunity for cultural exchange, an explanation frequently used by others defending their involvement in Saudi Arabia’s ambitious modernization projects.
For its Riyadh show, Vivienne Westwood unveiled exquisitely embroidered gowns created in collaboration with Art of Heritage, a local organization dedicated to preserving cultural artifacts and training Saudi women in traditional crafts. Princess Nourah bint Mohammed Al Faisal, the founder of Riyadh Fashion Week and head of Art of Heritage, emphasized to Harper’s Bazaar Arabia that this partnership demonstrates the global resonance of Saudi craftsmanship.
This sentiment aligns perfectly with Mohammed Khoja’s artistic vision. His designs are a personal tribute to his roots and experiences, from his childhood in Texas to his business administration and fashion studies in Paris. One of his collections even features prints inspired by local petroglyphs, aiming to underscore ‘the origins of visual culture in Arabia.’
However, the critique of international involvement has also faced a counter-backlash. Some argue that accusations of ‘whitewashing’ are hypocritical, failing to acknowledge the kingdom’s sincere efforts to diversify its economy and appeal to its tech-savvy, youthful demographic.
As Khoja asserted, ‘It’s not a monolithic society. There’s creative expression here.’