Forget strict rules – at Oktoberfest, it’s cool to pair your lederhosen with sneakers! This iconic Bavarian festival is seeing a vibrant evolution in its traditional attire. From custom deerskin pants featuring Arabic calligraphy to African-inspired dirndls crafted by Cameroonian-born designers, new generations and diverse communities are adding their unique flair to classic German fashion.
Millions flock to Munich each year for the autumn celebration of beer and carnival fun. While some attendees proudly don heirloom ‘tracht’ – traditional Bavarian clothing passed down through families – others, particularly younger generations and new residents, are embracing a more contemporary approach. They’re challenging the fashion norms that haven’t seen a significant update since the 1970s, making ‘tracht’ their own.
For truly authentic, handcrafted lederhosen, patience is key. Michael Krippel’s workshop near Munich takes up to 18 months to produce these soft deerskin pants, often cherished and passed from father to son. This dedication to craftsmanship means his curing, cutting, and stitching techniques have remained virtually unchanged for 150 years. Yet, Krippel isn’t a purist; he welcomes modern twists like lighter leather shades and adventurous customer commissions.
Krippel’s custom lederhosen can command prices over $2,300. Clients often request unique additions, from motorcycle logos to personalized embroidery. One memorable request involved a quote from 19th-century Bavarian comedian Karl Valentin, which Krippel’s team meticulously translated into elegant Arabic calligraphy. “So really crazy things, somehow,” Krippel commented on these innovative designs. He’s not alone in embracing such creative freedom.
Fashion designer Rahmée Wetterich, who immigrated to Germany from Cameroon at age 12, perfectly embodies this cultural fusion. In 2017, she unveiled an African-inspired dirndl – a traditional Bavarian dress – at a Munich City Hall celebration. She recalls feeling a mix of apprehension and hope: “I wasn’t sure if I was going to get shot,” she said with a smile. “Will I be hated? I don’t know. Will I be accepted?”
Wetterich’s concerns proved unfounded. Her unique, Africa-handprinted dirndl earned her an award for innovation in folk culture. Today, she and her sister, Marie Darouiche, co-own the tailoring shop Noh Nee, where many clients seek to blend diverse cultural aesthetics into their clothing. As Wetterich puts it, these individuals desire to honor their own traditions while integrating new influences, carrying “two hearts in their chest.”
Not all embrace radical change. Max Lechner, 25, of Lederhosen Lechner, a shop housed in a charming former farmhouse, champions strict tradition. He refuses to incorporate fleeting trends like pink thread into his meticulously crafted, fish-fat-cured deer-hide lederhosen, which are designed to endure for generations. “A trendy color is maybe cool for a year or two,” he muses, “Then what about for the next 100 years?” Reflecting this timeless appeal, half his clientele still choose the classic black leather with green silk.
Lechner advocates for daily wear of lederhosen, advising customers to keep them out of summer closets. He’s laid-back about styling, often sporting flannel shirts and going barefoot in his own shop, but draws the line at cheaply made online versions. Despite his traditional stance, he appreciates the diverse flair young revelers bring to their costumes at Oktoberfest.
Wandering through the carnival grounds on a warm day, you might see teenagers, particularly those with immigrant backgrounds, effortlessly combining lederhosen with soccer jerseys. When temperatures drop, hoodies make an appearance – from casual cotton to more formal Bavarian-style jackets. Dirndls are paired with everything from chunky boots to elegant high heels and designer handbags, complemented by an endless array of hats. Despite the evolving styles, seasoned artisans like Lechner and Krippel possess an uncanny ability to identify handmade ‘tracht’ and even recognize the individual craftsperson.
These fashion statements aren’t confined to Oktoberfest; ‘tracht’ remains a part of everyday Bavarian life, worn for activities ranging from bird hunting and parties to casual visits to a biergarten. At Lorenz Ganter’s tailor shop north of Munich, women meticulously sew vests and jackets using locally sourced Bavarian wool and other fabrics. Dieter Ganter, who carries on his grandfather’s 80-year-old legacy, notes a modern preference for lighter, brighter fabrics over the classic green and brown hues.
Ganter also observes that many of his customers are recent migrants or new arrivals to the region, some of whom save diligently to acquire their first pieces of ‘tracht’. “People want to be a part of Bavaria,” he explains, “They like it.” And, crucially, they enjoy making these traditions uniquely their own.