My fascination with Madeira, a picturesque Portuguese island, began with a captivating photograph. It showcased a ‘levada’—one of the island’s unique aqueducts carved into a cliffside, complete with a charming, tree-lined footpath winding alongside it.
Located about 300 miles off the Moroccan coast, the main island of Madeira is surprisingly small—just 35 miles long and 14 miles wide. Yet, it boasts an incredible 1,350-mile network of these ancient irrigation channels. Originally engineered to carry water from the rugged, mountainous heart of the island down to the coastal villages, these levadas are now renowned for their breathtaking scenic trails, which often lead to stunning panoramic vistas and spectacular waterfalls.
A visual treat, Madeira offers diverse attractions, from the vibrant Monte Palace gardens to lively bars serving ‘poncha,’ the island’s iconic citrus cocktail.
The allure of Madeira’s vibrant and diverse food scene completely sealed the deal for me.
My late April arrival brought me to Funchal, Madeira’s charming capital. With its historic fort, intricate black-and-white tiled sidewalks, and stucco churches, it proudly displays its Portuguese colonial heritage (the archipelago was claimed by Portugal in 1419). While Funchal serves as an ideal base for island exploration, some areas might feel like a typical tourist hub, complete with familiar chain stores, photo-laden menus, and imposing cruise ships dominating the harbor. Nevertheless, it’s easy to forgive a walkable city when its jacaranda trees are bursting with spectacular blossoms.
Embracing the Elements on the Trails
An image shows a serene path running alongside a narrow aqueduct, shaded by lush trees overhead. This idyllic scene is typical of the levadas, or irrigation channels, found around Rabaçal, a popular starting point for hikes like the Levada do Alecrim.
Booking an all-day excursion to Rabaçal, a prime spot for Madeira’s most scenic levada walks, I pictured a tranquil hike, serenaded by gently flowing water. What I hadn’t anticipated was a torrential downpour drenching me the instant I disembarked the bus.
My transportation for the day was with a new bus service, connecting Funchal to key trailheads and sparing hikers the hassle of parking or car rental. Departing the city center at 7:30 a.m., our bus navigated the winding mountain roads. With each sharp turn, the landscape—and the weather—transformed dramatically: from sun-drenched green terraced hills overlooking the sparkling Atlantic, to dense forests shrouded in fog, and even a fleeting rainbow piercing through a sudden sun shower.
Upon reaching the trailhead, we were greeted by relentless sheets of rain and thick gray mist. As a powerful gust of wind promptly inverted my umbrella, it became clear that my carefully laid hiking plans would require a significant adjustment.
An image captures a small, elegant waterfall gracefully tumbling down a grassy slope directly into a concrete levada, illustrating a typical scene along the Levada do Furado hike near Ribeiro Frio.
With five hours until my scheduled pickup, my initial goal was to combine the popular Levada das 25 Fontes trail with the shorter Levada do Risco, famous for its waterfall finale. Equipped with a handy Madeira-specific hiking app that allows offline map downloads, I started down the rocky steps of the 25 Fontes trail. However, the heavy rain and a near-slip quickly convinced me to switch to the gentler Risco trail. The winding path, though muddy, was navigable, adorned with tiny waterfalls feeding into the main levada. The surrounding vegetation was incredibly lush, creating a primeval rainforest atmosphere where mosses and ferns flourished alongside the constant presence of the man-made aqueduct.
While the relentless rain hindered my appreciation of the tranquil water flowing beside me, it did offer one significant advantage: I had this usually bustling trail almost entirely to myself. Suddenly, turning a corner, I was captivated by the Risco waterfall, cascading in elegant tiers like a magnificent wedding cake. I stood on the viewing platform, utterly mesmerized and beaming at the breathtaking spectacle.
On my return journey, the first tour groups began to appear. Navigating through waves of damp hikers, I eventually reached the Nature Spot Cafe. There, I joined some French travelers at a communal table, savoring a warm cappuccino and a surprisingly delicious chicken sandwich on bolo do caco—Madeira’s distinctive crunchy flatbread—a delightful treat from a cafeteria perched improbably on a cliff edge.
Following lunch, and with the rain finally easing, I explored the nearby Levada do Alecrim. Its narrow footpath clung precariously between the aqueduct and a sheer drop, offering an exhilarating walk. For an hour, the rhythmic flow of the water seemed to propel me forward, until a persistent iPhone timer jolted me from my peaceful trance, reminding me of my impending bus departure.
Ascending to Cloudy Heights
A video showcases the scenic Madeira Cable Car, gracefully transporting passengers between Funchal at sea level and the hillside suburb of Monte, offering spectacular views of the landscape.
On the bus ride back, an Australian hiker inquired about my experience, asking, ‘Did you have any icy sleet?’ We had just driven through a hailstorm, only to emerge from a tunnel into perfectly clear blue skies. This dramatic shift highlighted Madeira’s temperamental mountain microclimates, yet its coastline remains dependably warm all year, making it a favored retreat for European snowbirds.
Two images present contrasting views of the Monte Palace gardens: one featuring elegant flamingos amidst a profusion of vibrant flora, highlighting the garden’s riot of color and texture; the other capturing water gracefully streaming down a hillside, an integral part of the garden’s intricate system of channels, ponds, and pools.
The following morning, a cable car journey whisked me away to an entirely different realm: the magnificent Monte Palace gardens. This sprawling hillside estate is a kaleidoscopic explosion of tropical plants, ornate Japanese temples, and striking Zimbabwean sculptures, all interconnected by a symphony of cascading fountains, serene pools, and gentle waterfalls. Peacocks roamed regally, while flamingos posed gracefully in an azulejo-tiled pond. Formerly the private residence of the British consul, the gardens exuded an almost psychedelic charm, as if a vibrant blend of the Alhambra and ‘Sgt. Pepper’ had come to life.
Hours later, I was back in Funchal, ready to pick up a rental car. Although I encountered many travelers relying on the bus, public transport outside the capital can be sporadic. My ambition was to witness the sunset from Pico do Areeiro, Madeira’s third-highest peak. (I had heard that while sunrise there is bustling with photographers, dusk offers a more tranquil experience.)
An ethereal image depicts a solitary hiker traversing a rocky path along a misty ridge on Pico do Areeiro, heading towards the dramatic cliff-top staircase known as the ‘Stairway to Heaven.’
After a challenging ascent, carefully navigating Funchal’s incredibly steep alleyways in my manual hatchback, I climbed further into the mountains. I clung to the hope that the clear conditions I’d seen on the summit webcam would last. As I drove higher, the landscape transformed into an otherworldly, almost lunar terrain. Soon, I found myself parked at what felt like the top of the world—completely enveloped in a dense, swirling mist.
Undeterred, I joined a small group of hikers heading towards the iconic cliff-top staircase, aptly nicknamed the ‘Stairway to Heaven.’ The trail was hauntingly beautiful, giving the impression of walking directly through the clouds. However, with visibility almost non-existent, I wisely decided to turn back. Heaven, I concluded, could wait; a warm dinner beckoned further down the mountain.
Finding Peace on Winding Mountain Roads
An aerial view reveals a winding road gracefully cutting through Madeira’s dense laurel forest, connecting small villages nestled amidst the lush, mountainous landscape.
Throughout my trip, Madeira’s snack bars—charming, casual eateries—had been a culinary highlight. They offered fresh catches, succulent garlic-infused ‘pregos’ (Portuguese steak sandwiches) on their signature crunchy bread, a delightful array of passion fruit desserts, and, without fail, a homemade ‘poncha,’ the island’s celebrated citrusy cocktail. That particular evening, I indulged in a local delicacy: black scabbardfish. This creature, with its eel-like body and formidable, piranha-sized teeth, is a visual ‘gothic horror,’ yet surprisingly delicious when served with banana and a vibrant passion fruit sauce—a dish I likened to ‘fish and chips by Willy Wonka.’
With a forecast promising bright sunshine, even in the highlands, I steered my hatchback towards the peaceful mountain hamlet of Ribeiro Frio. The drive itself was a joy, curving gracefully through Madeira’s ancient, dense laurel forest.
The image depicts modern, elevated highways gracefully winding through Madeira’s dramatic, tree-covered mountainous interior, showcasing the island’s impressive infrastructure.
Following the recent deluge, the two levada trails near the village were essentially mudslides. Nevertheless, they were incredibly verdant, with trees overflowing with lush greenery. As I squelched along the cliff-edge Levada do Furado—a path so narrow in places it only accommodated one hiker—the sight of sunshine was a welcome relief. The air felt incredibly fresh and rich, as if I’d been breathing diluted air back home. I paused frequently, absorbing the natural symphony: the river’s murmur in the valley, the calls of birds, and the gentle, constant flow of the levada.
Returning to the trailhead, the inviting snack bar appeared. Settled by a warm fireplace, I enjoyed a comforting bowl of traditional tomato-and-egg soup with garlicky bolo do caco bread. As I ate, the breathtaking valley view outside slowly vanished, swallowed by rolling mist and a sudden downpour of rain.
A comforting post-hike meal is presented: a hearty bowl of tomato-and-egg soup accompanied by a generous stack of garlicky bolo do caco bread, enjoyed at a rustic eatery in Arraial do Ribeiro Frio.
This time, I cast aside my usual reliance on weather apps and webcams, abandoning any attempt to perfectly time my next adventure. I confidently switched off Google Maps – after all, how truly lost can one get on an island just 35 miles long? – and instinctively drove north, drawn by the distant promise of the ocean.
As I smoothly navigated the winding mountain switchbacks, the sense of tranquil bliss I had been searching for finally enveloped me. This peaceful moment was only broken when I caught a glimpse of movement from the corner of my eye. I turned to see it: a majestic waterfall, cascading powerfully down the mountainside, disappearing quickly from view.
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